Cover Page The handle

Cover Page

The handle http://hdl.handle.net/1887/39627 holds various files of this Leiden University dissertation.

Author: Brandenburgh, C.R.

Title: Clothes make the man : early medieval textiles from the Netherlands

Issue Date: 2016-05-10

8.1 INTRODUCTION

7KHSUHYLRXVFKDSWHUVKDYHGLVFXVVHGWKH¿QGVIURP

LQGLYLGXDO FHPHWHULHV DQG VHWWOHPHQWV ,Q WKLV ODVW

FKDSWHU WKH UHVXOWV RI DOO WKHVH FDVH VWXGLHV ZLOO EH

GLVFXVVHGWRJHWKHU)RUUHDVRQVGLVFXVVHGLQFKDSWHU

 WKH ¿QGV IURP WKH FHPHWHULHV SURYLGHG WKH PRVW

UHOLDEOHGDWDVHWIRUUHFRQVWUXFWLQJWKHXVHRIWH[WLOHV

LQ WKH 0HURYLQJLDQ SHULRG 0RUHRYHU GXH WR WKHLU

RIWHQH[FHOOHQWO\GRFXPHQWHGFRQWH[WWKHVHWH[WLOHV

DUHPRUHVXLWDEOHZKHQWU\LQJWRGLVFHUQGLIIHUHQFHV

ZLWKLQ VLWHV JHQGHU DQG DJH GLIIHUHQWLDWLRQ DQG

FKURQRORJLFDO GHYHORSPHQWV 6HWWOHPHQW WH[WLOHV

RQ WKH RWKHU KDQG DUH JHQHUDOO\ \RXQJHU WKDQ WKH

0HURYLQJLDQ SHULRG DQG DUH PRUH VXLWDEOH IRU

HVWDEOLVKLQJ WKH FXW DQG VKDSH RI JDUPHQWV DQG

PRGHRISURGXFWLRQ&RQVHTXHQWO\WKLV¿QDOFKDSWHU

IRFXVHV¿UVWO\RQJUDYHWH[WLOHVDQGWKHLUXVHDQGWKH

¿QGVIURPWKHVHWWOHPHQWVDUHWUHDWHGVHSDUDWHO\IURP

WKRVHIURPWKHFHPHWHULHV

7KH UHVXOWV RI WKH WH[WLOH DQDO\VHV DUH SUHVHQWHG DV

IROORZVWHFKQLFDODVSHFWVRIWKHFHPHWHU\WH[WLOHVDUH

GHVFULEHGLQVHFWLRQIROORZHGE\DQDVVHVVPHQWRI

WKHLUTXDOLW\VHFWLRQ7KHXVHRIWKHWH[WLOHVLQWKLV

SHULRGZLOOEHGLVFXVVHGLQFOXGLQJDUHFRQVWUXFWLRQ

RI HDUO\ PHGLHYDO EXULDO GUHVV  WKH FXVWRP RI

FRYHULQJREMHFWVLQDJUDYHZLWKIDEULFVDQGWKH

XVH RI RWKHU FHPHWHU\ WH[WLOHV  'LIIHUHQFHV LQ

WKHXVHRIIDEULFVEHFRPHHYLGHQWZKHQFRPSDULQJ

WKHJUDYHVRIPHQZRPHQDQGFKLOGUHQVHFWLRQ

7KH¿QGVIURPWKHVHWWOHPHQWVZLOOEHGLVFXVVHGLQ

VHFWLRQ  DV ZHOO DV D FRPSDULVRQ EHWZHHQ WKH

FHPHWHU\ WH[WLOHV DQG WKRVH IURP VHWWOHPHQWV 7KLV

FKDSWHUHQGVZLWKDGLVFXVVLRQRIWKHYDULDWLRQRIWKH

XVHRIWH[WLOHVREVHUYHGLQWKH1HWKHUODQGVDQGWKH

PHDQLQJZHPD\DWWDFKWRWKHVHWUHQGV

8.2. TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE TEXTILES FROM THE CEMETERIES

 )LEUHW\SHV

)LEUHLGHQWL¿FDWLRQRIWKHWH[WLOHVLQWKHFHPHWHULHV

UHVXOWHGLQDFRQVLGHUDEOHQXPEHURILGHQWL¿FDWLRQV

RI ZRROOHQ IDEULFV 3ODQW ¿EUHV KDYH RQO\ VSDUVHO\

EHHQ UHFRJQLVHG LQ WKH GDWDVHW +RZHYHU QR

V\VWHPDWLF ¿EUH DQDO\VHV ZHUH SRVVLEOH GXH WR WKH

RIWHQSRRUFRQGLWLRQRIWKHWH[WLOHV*ROGWKUHDGKDV

EHHQ GRFXPHQWHG RQFH LQ 0DDVWULFKW6LQW6HUYDDV

FKXUFK DQG WZLFH LQ 0DDVWULFKW3DQGKRI

  ,W DOVR

RFFXUVLQWKHVL[WKFHPHWHU\RI9ORGURSZKLFKKDV

QRW EHHQ SXEOLVKHG \HW

 7KH RFFXUUHQFH RI JROG

WKUHDGLVWKHUHIRUHHYLGHQWO\QRWUHVHUYHGIRUWKHKLJK

VWDWXVEXULDOVLQ0DDVWULFKW

 '\HV

$V GHVFULEHG LQ VHFWLRQ  G\H DQDO\VLV FRXOG

RQO\ EH FDUULHG RXW RQ D VPDOO SHUFHQWDJH RI WKH

WH[WLOH IUDJPHQWV H[DPLQHG LQ WKLV VWXG\$OWKRXJK

WKHDQDO\VLVRIG\HPDWHULDOVDVDUHVXOWOLHVEH\RQG

WKH VFRSH RI WKLV UHVHDUFK VRPH JHQHUDO UHPDUNV

FDQEHPDGHUHJDUGLQJWKHXVHRIFRORXULQWKHHDUO\

PHGLHYDOWH[WLOHVH[DPLQHGLQWKLVVWXG\

6HYHUDO DWWHPSWV KDYH EHHQ PDGH WR DQDO\VH G\HV

IURPERWKVHWWOHPHQWVDQGFHPHWHULHV$QXPEHURI

IUDJPHQWVIURPWKHFHPHWHU\RI5KHQHQZHUHVHOHFWHG

387. For an overview of the way gold thread has been used in embroideries see Owen Crocker 2004, 308-315. The use of gold thread in woven bands (gold-brocading) is discussed by Walton Rogers 2007, 96-97. For a detailed description of the gold thread in Maastricht see chapter 4 (section 4.5.2) and Brandenburgh 2015, 42-45.

388. Personal comment J. Kempkens of Restaura restaura- tieatelier.

IRU G\H DQDO\VLV EXW QR G\HV FRXOG EH LGHQWL¿HG LQ

WKHVHVDPSOHV7KHVDPHFDQEHVDLGUHJDUGLQJWKH

PLWWHQIRXQGLQ'RUHVWDG

)URP WKH terpen DUHD VHYHQ WH[WLOH IUDJPHQWV ZHUH

VHOHFWHGIRUG\HDQDO\VLV7KHUHVXOWVFRYHUDGLYHUVLW\

RI FRORXUV 5HG G\H FRXOG EH LGHQWL¿HG LQ WKH KDW

IURP2RVWUXP$'ZKLFKKDGEHHQPDGH

IURPDZKLWHÀHHFHIRUWKHPDLQERG\RIWKHKDWZLWK

GHFRUDWLYHVWLWFKLQJLQIDZQZRRO7KHVDPHPDGGHU

W\SHG\HZDVSUHVHQWLQERWKWKHFORWKDQGWKHVHZLQJ

WKUHDG EXW LW ZDV PXFK PRUH FRQFHQWUDWHG LQ WKH

VWLWFKLQJ PDNLQJ LW OLNHO\ WKDW WKH JURXQG IDEULF

ZDVOLJKWUHGVDOPRQRUSHDFKDQGWKHQHHGOHZRUND

GHHSGXOOUHG,QWKHKDWIURP%HUJ6LRQFDO

$'ZKLFKZDVPDGHRXWRIQDWXUDOO\EURZQZRRO

WKH FKHPLFDO VLJQDWXUH RI D WDQQLQEDVHG EURZQ RU

EODFNFRORUDQWZDVSUHVHQW7KLVZDVGHWHFWHGLQWKH

PDLQ IDEULF RI WKH KDW EXW QRW LQ WKH QHHGOHZRUN

ZKLFKVXJJHVWVWKDWWKHWDQQLQVZHUHSUHVHQWLQDG\H

DSSOLHGWRJLYHDVROLGEODFNWRWKHDOUHDG\QDWXUDOO\

GDUNÀHHFHFRORXURIWKHKHDGGUHVV

 7KHW\SHVRIZHDYHVXVHGLQWKHFHPHWHULHV

LQWKH1HWKHUODQGV 8.2.3.1 Tabby weaves

7KH SRSXODULW\ RI WKLV IDEULF YDULHV DPRQJ WKH

FHPHWHULHVLQVRPHVLWHVVXFKDV%HUJHLMNDQG/HQW

DSSUR[LPDWHO\  RI WKH WH[WLOHV ZHUH ZRYHQ LQ

WDEE\ ZKLOH LQ RWKHU VLWHV PRUH WKDQ  RI WKH

WH[WLOHV ZHUH WDEELHV (VSHFLDOO\ 0DDVWULFKW  6LQW

6HUYDDV FKXUFK 0DDVWULFKW9ULMWKRI /HXVGHQ DQG

3RVWHUKROW VKRZ D SUHGRPLQDQFH RI WDEELHV 7KH

PDMRULW\ RI WDEELHV LQ DOO VLWHV H[FHSW /HQW DUH

ZRYHQ RXW RI ]VSXQ \DUQV LQ ERWK ZDUS DQG ZHIW

]] 6PDOO TXDQWLWLHV ZHUH ZRYHQ RXW RI VVSXQ

\DUQV LQ ERWK V\VWHPV VV RU ]VSXQ \DUQV LQ RQH

V\VWHP DQG VVSXQ \DUQV LQ WKH RWKHU V\VWHP ]V

6HYHUDORIWKHWDEELHVZHUHZRYHQLQDVSLQSDWWHUQ

7KLV SDWWHUQ LV FUHDWHG XVLQJ ERWK ] DQG VWZLVWHG

WKUHDGVLQRQHRUERWKV\VWHPV7KHGLIIHUHQWGLUHFWLRQ

389. Here traces of red and yellow were found but one could not tell whether these were derived from dyes or from the sediment in which the mitten had been excavated (analysis Instituut Collectie Nederland, 09-01-2009/1219).

RI WKH WZLVW RI WKH \DUQV EHVWRZV D YHU\ VXEWOH EXW

FOHDU VWULSHG SDWWHUQ WR WKH IDEULF$ QXPEHU RI 

WDEELHVZDVZRYHQRXWRIZRROOHQWKUHDGVZKHUHDV

 ZHUH SUREDEO\ PDGH RXW RI SODQW ¿EUHV )LEUH

LGHQWL¿FDWLRQ KRZHYHU ZDV QRW SRVVLEOH LQ QHDUO\

 IDEULFV PDNLQJ LW LPSRVVLEOH WR HVWLPDWH WKH

RFFXUUHQFHRIWKHVH¿EUHW\SHVDPRQJWKHWDEELHV

0RVWWDEELHVZHUHUDWKHUEDODQFHGZLWKDSSUR[LPDWHO\

WKHVDPHQXPEHURIWKUHDGVLQERWKWKUHDGV\VWHPV

6HYHUDO IDEULFV KRZHYHU VKRZ D ODUJH GLIIHUHQFH

EHWZHHQ ZDUS DQG ZHIW ZLWK PRUH WKDQ WKULFH DV

PDQ\WKUHDGVLQRQHV\VWHPWKDQLQWKHRWKHU7KLV

RFFXUVRQO\LQWKHFHPHWHU\RI0DDVWULFKW3DQGKRI

0DDVWULFKW6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFK

1RUPDOO\DUDWLR

RIRUDGLIIHUHQFHRIDWOHDVWWHQWKUHDGVSHUFP

LVXVHGWRMXVWLI\WKHXVHRIWKHWHUPUHSS

:KHQ

DSSO\LQJWKLVWRWKHWH[WLOHVDQRWKHUIRXUIURP6LQW

6HUYDDV FKXUFK D WH[WLOH IURP 0DDVWULFKW9ULMWKRI

DQG¿YHWH[WLOHVIURP5KHQHQTXDOLI\DVUHSS

8.2.3.2 2/2 twills

,QPRVWFDVHVZKHUHWKHIDEULFZDVHYLGHQWO\ZRYHQ

LQWZLOOLWZDVQRWSRVVLEOHWRDVFHUWDLQZKHWKHU

LW ZDV D  SODLQ WZLOO RU D YDULHW\ RI WKLV ZHDYH

VXFK DV GLDPRQG WZLOO 2QO\ ZKHUH WKH IUDJPHQWV

ZHUH ODUJH HQRXJK WR FRYHU SDUW RI D UHYHUVDO LQ

WKH SDWWHUQ WKH GLIIHUHQFH EHWZHHQ WKH W\SHV RI

WZLOO FRXOG EH GLVFHUQHG &RQVHTXHQWO\ PRVW RI

WKHVPDOOHUIUDJPHQWVFPDUHDVVLJQHGWRWKH

JURXS RI  SODLQ WZLOO OHDGLQJ WR D FRQVLGHUDEOH

RYHUUHSUHVHQWDWLRQ RI WKLV JURXS

 ,Q PDQ\ VLWHV

 WZLOOV DUH HTXDOO\ LPSRUWDQW DV WDEELHV 7KHUH

DUH KRZHYHU UHJLRQDO YDULDWLRQV VXFK DV %HUJHLMN

ZLWK WZLFH DV PDQ\  WZLOOV WKDQ WDEELHV DQG

/HXVGHQ 0DDVWULFKW ± 6LQW6HUYDDV FKXUFK DQG

0DDVWULFKW9ULMWKRI ZKHUH WKH UDWLR WDEE\ WZLOO

LV DSSUR[LPDWHO\  /RFDO YDULDWLRQ FDQ DOVR EH

REVHUYHG UHJDUGLQJWKHSUHIHUHQFHVLQ WKHGLUHFWLRQ

3DQGKRI¿QGQXPEHU7;6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFK

¿QGQXPEHUVVWUD\¿QGDQG

391. Bender Jørgensen 1991, 13.

6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFK¿QGQXPEHUV''

'' 9ULMWKRI¿QGQXPEHU

5KHQHQ¿QGQXPEHUV 

393. 87 of the 2/2 twills were made out of wool, whereas it ZDVQRWSRVVLEOHWRLGHQWLI\WKH¿EUHW\SHLQWKHRWKHU

twills

RI VSLQ ZLWKLQ WKH IDEULFV 6RPH VLWHV VKRZ HTXDO

DPRXQWVRI]VDQG]]LQWKHWZLOOVEXWWKHUHDUH

DOVRVLWHVZKHUH]]WZLOOVDUHFRPSOHWHO\ODFNLQJRU

VSDUVH DJDLQ /HXVGHQ 0DDVWULFKW ± 6LQW6HUYDDV

FKXUFKDQG0DDVWULFKW9ULMWKRI

'LDPRQG WZLOOV DUH LQ VPDOO TXDQWLWLHV SUHVHQW LQ

SUDFWLFDOO\DOOFHPHWHULHV7KHVHIDEULFVDUHJHQHUDOO\

ZRYHQLQ]V[EXWVPDOOTXDQWLWLHVRI]][

VV[DQGVSLQSDWWHUQ[KDYHEHHQUHFRJQLVHG

DV ZHOO :H PD\ KRZHYHU DVVXPH WKDW WKLV IDEULF

RFFXUUHG PRUH RIWHQ :KHQ ZH ORRN DW WKH IDEULF

GLVWULEXWLRQ DPRQJ 'XWFK VHWWOHPHQWV ¿J  LW

EHFRPHV REYLRXV WKDW GLDPRQG WZLOOV ZHUH YHU\

SRSXODU DQG FRQVWLWXWHG  WR  RI WKH WRWDO

ERG\RIIDEULFV

+HUHZHKDYHWRWDNHLQWRDFFRXQW

WKDWWKHVHWWOHPHQWVDUHJHQHUDOO\ORFDWHGLQWKHQRUWK

RI WKH FRXQWU\ ZKHUHDV WKH FHPHWHULHV DUH ORFDWHG

LQ WKH FHQWUH DQG VRXWK RI WKH FRXQWU\ 0RUHRYHU

WKH VHWWOHPHQWV KDYH D EURDGHU OLIHVSDQ PDNLQJ D

FRPSDULVRQ EHWZHHQ VHWWOHPHQWV DQG FHPHWHULHV

OHVVUHOLDEOH:HFDQKRZHYHUH[SHFWWKDWSDWWHUQHG

IDEULFVVXFKDVGLDPRQGWZLOOVDUHXQGHUUHSUHVHQWHG

LQWKHGLDJUDPVRIWKHFHPHWHULHV

8.2.3.3 Other types of twill

9DULDWLRQV RI WZLOO VXFK DV  WZLOO  WZLOO 

WZLOO DQG 5LSSHQN|SHU DUH SUHVHQW LQ YHU\ VPDOO

TXDQWLWLHVDQGRQO\LQ/HQW5KHQHQDQG0DDVWULFKW

6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFKWZLOOKDVRQO\EHHQREVHUYHG

RQFHLQ/HQWDQGWZLFHLQ5KHQHQLQERWK]VDQG]]

YDULDWLRQVZKLOHDQGWZLOOVPDGHRXWRI]]

VSXQ\DUQVKDYHEHHQGRFXPHQWHGVROHO\LQ5KHQHQ

2QH IDEULF IURP 6LQW6HUYDDV FKXUFK FRXOG EH

LGHQWL¿HGDVD5LSSHQN|SHUSDWWHUQ

8.2.3.4 Tablet weave

7DEOHWZHDYHKDVRQO\EHHQGRFXPHQWHGWZLFHDQG

ERWKIUDJPHQWVZHUHGLVFRYHUHGLQWKHFHPHWHU\RI

5KHQHQ

394. Brandenburgh 2010a, 60 (chapter 6).

5KHQHQ¿QGQXPEHU :DJQHU <SH\

 

8.2.3.5 Conclusions regarding the fabric types 7KHUHLVYHU\OLPLWHGYDULDWLRQLQWKHW\SHVRIIDEULFV

GRFXPHQWHG LQ 'XWFK FHPHWHULHV ¿J  7KLV

GLVWULEXWLRQSDWWHUQLVXQGRXEWHGO\LQÀXHQFHGE\WKH

VPDOO VL]H RI WKH WH[WLOH IUDJPHQWV WKDW YHU\ RIWHQ

GRHV QRW DOORZ DQ HVWDEOLVKPHQW RI YDULDWLRQV RI

WZLOOV ,Q ODUJH ¿QG FRPSOH[HV VXFK DV 0DDVWULFKW

6LQW6HUYDDV FKXUFK DQG 5KHQHQ VSHFLDO ZHDYHV

KDYH EHHQ LGHQWL¿HG RFFDVLRQDOO\  WKHUHIRUH

WKH FKDQFH RI UHFRJQL]LQJ WKHVH VSHFLDO ZHDYHV

LQ D VPDOOHU FRPSOH[ LV YHU\ VPDOO 7KH IDFW WKDW

WKHVH ZHDYHV KDYH QRW EHHQ IRXQG LQ WKH VPDOOHU

FHPHWHULHV WKHUHIRUH GRHV QRW DXWRPDWLFDOO\ LPSO\

WKDWWKH\ZHUHWRWDOO\DEVHQW

:HFDQQHYHUWKHOHVVGLVFHUQFHUWDLQWUHQGVZLWKFOHDU

SUHIHUHQFHV IRU FHUWDLQ JURXSV RI ZHDYH W\SHV LQ

GLIIHUHQWFHPHWHULHV:KHQZHORRNDW¿JXUHDL

WKHFHPHWHULHVRI/HXVGHQ0DDVWULFKW6LQW6HUYDDV

FKXUFK DQG 0DDVWULFKW9ULMWKRI VKRZ D VLPLODU

GLVWULEXWLRQRIWH[WLOHVZLWKDSUHIHUHQFHIRUWDEELHV

DQGWZLOOVRFFXUULQJLQVPDOOHUTXDQWLWLHV3RVWHUKROW

DOVR VKRZV WKLV SUHIHUHQFH EXW KHUH WKH GLIIHUHQFHV

EHWZHHQ WKH QXPEHUV RI WDEELHV DQG WZLOOV DUH

VPDOOHU,QRWKHUFHPHWHULHVVXFKDV/HQW:LMFKHQ

5KHQHQ DQG 0DDVWULFKW3RVWHUKROW WDEELHV DQG

WZLOOV DUH SUHVHQW LQ DSSUR[LPDWHO\ HTXDO QXPEHUV

%HUJHLMNLVWKHRQO\FHPHWHU\ZKHUHWZLOOVVHHPWR

KDYHEHHQPRUHSRSXODUWKDQWDEELHV

,WLVYHU\GLI¿FXOWWRHVWDEOLVKDFKURQRORJ\RIWH[WLOH

W\SHV ZLWKLQ WKH FHPHWHULHV 7KH JUDYHV DUH GDWHG

LQWR RYHUODSSLQJ SKDVHV RIWHQ UHVXOWLQJ LQ D VPDOO

QXPEHU RI IUDJPHQWV SHU SKDVH 7KHVH QXPEHUV

GR QRW DOORZ DQ\ VWDWLVWLFDO XVH RI WKH WH[WLOH GDWD

\HW 6LQFH RQH RI WKH UHVHDUFK TXHVWLRQV UHODWHV WR

WKH GLIIHUHQFHV EHWZHHQ WKH ¿IWKVL[WK DQG VHYHQWK

FHQWXU\ DQ DWWHPSW KDV EHHQ PDGH WR FRPSDUH WKH

WH[WLOHUHPQDQWVIURPWKHVHSHULRGV,Q%HUJHLMNRQO\

WZLOOV]VDUHSUHVHQWLQWKHVL[WKFHQWXU\,QWKH

VHYHQWK FHQWXU\ GLIIHUHQW W\SHV RI ZHDYHV FRPH LQ

XVH¿UVWWKHGLDPRQGWZLOOV]VWKHSODLQWZLOOV

]]DQGGLDPRQGWZLOOV]]HPHUJHDQGLQWKHVHFRQG

KDOI RI WKH VHYHQWK FHQWXU\ WKHUH DUH DOVR WDEELHV

SUHVHQW :H PXVW KRZHYHU WDNH LQWR DFFRXQW WKDW

WKHVL[WKFHQWXU\LVRQO\UHSUHVHQWHGE\IRXUIDEULFV

LQ WKLV FHPHWHU\

 7KH IDEULFV IURP 0DDVWULFKW

ZHUHDOVRGLYLGHGDFFRUGLQJWRWKHGLIIHUHQWSKDVHV

WKH FHPHWHULHV ZHUH LQ XVH EXW QR FOHDU GLIIHUHQFH

EHWZHHQWKHVL[WKDQGWKHVHYHQWKFHQWXU\FRXOGEH

REVHUYHGLQWKHWKUHHFHPHWHULHVIURPWKLVFLW\

,Q

WKHFHPHWHULHVRI 3RVWHUKROWDQG/HQW/HQWVHYHOGD

FRPSDULVRQ EHWZHHQ WKH VL[WK DQG VHYHQWK FHQWXU\

SURYHG LPSRVVLEOH DV ZHOO LQ 3RVWHUKROW RQO\ RQH

RI WKH  JUDYHV FRQWDLQLQJ WH[WLOHV ZDV DVFULEHG

WRWKHVL[WKFHQWXU\

ZKLOHWKHWH[WLOHVIURP/HQW

/HQWVHYHOGZHUHDOOIURPWKH¿IWKDQGVL[WKFHQWXU\

7KHFHPHWHU\RI:LMFKHQKDVWKHJUHDWHVWSRWHQWLDO

IRU FRPSDULQJ WKH FKURQRORJ\ RI WH[WLOHV ZLWKLQ D

VLQJOH FHPHWHU\ ZLWK  SLHFHV RI IDEULF IURP WKH

%UDQGHQEXUJKD¿J

397. Brandenburgh 2015, 46 (chapter 4).

398. Brandenburgh 2013, 134.

399. Chapter 5, (section 5.4).

¿IWKVL[WK FHQWXU\ DQG  WH[WLOH IUDJPHQWV IURP

WKH VHYHQWK FHQWXU\ +HUH LW LV UHPDUNDEOH WKDW WKH

SUHGRPLQDQW WH[WLOH W\SH LQ WKH ¿IWKVL[WK FHQWXULHV

LVWZLOOZKLFKLVDOVRREVHUYHGLQ%HUJHLMN,Q

WKH VHYHQWK FHQWXU\  WZLOOV DQG WDEELHV EHFRPH

HTXDOO\SRSXODULQWKLVFHPHWHU\

6LQFHWKHLQGLYLGXDOFHPHWHULHVGRQRWSURYLGHHQRXJK

GDWDEOHIUDJPHQWVWRDQDO\VHWKHGHYHORSPHQWZLWKLQ

WKH EXULDO VLWHV WKH WH[WLOHV IURP WKHVH FHPHWHULHV

KDYHEHHQJURXSHGWRJHWKHULQRUGHUWRGLVFHUQFUXGH

WUHQGVDQGGLIIHUHQFHVEHWZHHQWKHVL[WKDQGVHYHQWK

FHQWXU\ ¿J DE 2I WKH  WH[WLOHV WKDW KDYH

EHHQ GRFXPHQWHG  FRXOG EH ¿UPO\ DVVLJQHG WR

WKH¿IWKVL[WKFHQWXU\ZKLOHZHUHGDWHGWRWKH

400. Chapter 5, (section 5.4).

)LJ  'LVWULEXWLRQ RI WKH IDEULF W\SHV LQ WKH

settlements. N=235. These textile remains will be discussed in section 8.8.

)LJ'LVWULEXWLRQRIWKHIDEULFW\SHVLQDOOFHPHWHULHV

throughout the entire period.

6 5 0

58

26 4 4 93

3 4 3 5

1 3 3 1 1 14

tabby z/s tabby z/z tabby spin-pattern 2/2 twill z/s 2/2 twill z/z 2/2 twill spinpattern 2/2 twill 2sZ/2sZ diamond twill z/s diamond twill z/z

diamond twill spinpattern diamond twill 2sZ/2sZ 2/1 twill z/s 2/1 twill spin-pattern tablet weave Chevron twill Herringbone twill cross twill other/indet

34

199

6 5 12 106

72 3 1 9

22 5

4 5 1

2 1

2 1 2 124

tabby z/s tabby z/z tabby s/s tabby spin-pattern tabby 2zS/2zS 2/2 twill z/s 2/2 twill z/z 2/2 twill s/s 2/2 twill spinpattern 2/2 twill 2sZ/2sZ

diamond twill z/s diamond twill z/z diamond twill s/s diamond twill spinpattern 2/1 twill z/s

2/1 twill z/z rippenköper z/z 3/1 twil z/z 3/3 twil z/z tablet weave indet

a b

d e f

i c

7

2

16 5

3 1

6 2

10

4 1

1 4

1

6

4 1 1 2 1 24

4

1

4

1 1

2 1

1 2

7

5 4

1 6

3

35

2 1 6

1 1

10

1

8

1 1 2 3

1 1

4

5

29

1 21

9 1

2 4

1 14

16

98

6 2 5 44 46

1 1 9 5 2 4

1 4 2 2

1 2 55

g h

tabby z/s tabby z/z tabby s/s tabby spin-pattern

tabby 2zS/2zS 2/2 twill z/s 2/2 twill z/z 2/2 twill s/s

2/2 twill spinpattern 2/2 twill 2sZ/2sZ diamond twill z/s diamond twill z/z

diamond twill s/s diamond twill spinpattern 2/1 twill z/s

2/1 twill z/z

rippenköper z/z 3/1 twil z/z 3/3 twil z/z tablet weave

indet

D%HUJHLMN1   G0DDVWULFKW±9ULMWKRI1   J3RVWHUKROW1 

E/HQW/HQWVHYHOG1  H0DDVWULFKW±3DQGKRI1   K:LMFKHQ1 

F/HXVGHQ1  I0DDVWULFKW±6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFK1  L5KHQHQ1 

VHYHQWK FHQWXU\

$ FRQVLGHUDEOH QXPEHU RI WKHVH

UHPDLQV KRZHYHU ZHUH LQGHWHUPLQDWH IUDJPHQWV

OHDYLQJXVZLWKIDEULFVIURPWKH¿IWKVL[WKFHQWXU\

401. The graves from Rhenen have not been dated yet and the pieces from this site can therefore not be used for this purpose.

DQGIDEULFVIURPWKHVHYHQWKFHQWXU\$VLVVKRZQ

LQ¿JXUHDEWKHUHDUHVWDWLVWLFDOO\QRGLIIHUHQFHV

EHWZHHQERWKSHULRGVLQWHUPVRIIDEULFW\SHV

8.3 QUALITY OF THE TEXTILES FROM THE CEMETERIES

,QWKLVVHFWLRQWZRGH¿QLWLRQVRIWH[WLOHTXDOLW\ZLOOEH

GLVFXVVHGVWDUWLQJZLWKWKHµVWDQGDUG¶WKUHDGFRXQW

IROORZHGE\DGLVFXVVLRQRIDVSHFWVDQGIDFWRUVWKDW

PD\EHRILPSRUWDQFHLQDVVHVVLQJWH[WLOHTXDOLW\

8.3.1 Quality of textiles based on thread count

&RPSDULQJ WKH WH[WLOHV RI WKH FHPHWHULHV LQ WKH

1HWKHUODQGVVROHO\RQWKHEDVLVRIWKUHDGFRXQWZH

FDQ HVWDEOLVK WKDW WKHUH DUH GLIIHUHQFHV EHWZHHQ

WKH VLWHV ¿J DM 7KH WKUHH FHPHWHULHV IURP

0DDVWULFKW DQG /HXVGHQ FRQWDLQ WH[WLOH IUDJPHQWV

WKDWDUHJHQHUDOO\RIKLJKHUTXDOLW\WKDQWKRVHIURP

WKH RWKHU VLWHV +HUH PRVW RI WKH UHPQDQWV KDYH

WKUHDGFRXQWVLQWKHUDQJHRIPHGLXP¿QHDQG¿QH

TXDOLW\ EHWZHHQ  DQG  WKUHDGVFP ,Q WKH

FDVH RI WKH WKUHH FHPHWHULHV IURP 0DDVWULFKW WKHUH

DUHPDQ\H[FHSWLRQVLQWKHH[WUD¿QHFDWHJRU\ZLWK

WKUHDG FRXQWV DERYH  WKUHDGVFP 2WKHU VLWHV

VXFK DV %HUJHLMN 3RVWHUKROW DQG :LMFKHQ \LHOGHG

FRDUVHUIDEULFVZLWKWKUHDGFRXQWVEHWZHHQDQG

WKUHDGVFP DQG D IHZ H[FHSWLRQV XS WR  WKUHDGV

FP5KHQHQDQG/HQW/HQWVHYHOGVKRZDPL[WXUHRI

WKHVHWZRJURXSVKHUHWH[WLOHVDUHSUHVHQWLQFRDUVH

TXDOLWLHV ZLWK  WKUHDGVFP DQG HTXDO QXPEHUV RI

¿QHUIDEULFVUDQJLQJXSWRWKUHDGVFP,QQHDUO\

HYHU\ FHPHWHU\ WKH WDEELHV DUH JHQHUDOO\ RI KLJKHU

TXDOLW\ WKDQ WKH WZLOOV 7KH WH[WLOHV IURP /HQW

/HQWVHYHOGDUHDQH[FHSWLRQKHUHWKHWZLOOVDUH¿QHU

WKDQWKHWDEELHV

:LWKLQWKHJURXSRIWDEELHVWKH]]YDULDQWLVRQDYHUDJH

VOLJKWO\¿QHUWKDQWKHRWKHUVSLQFRPELQDWLRQV¿J

6SLQSDWWHUQHGWDEELHVDQGWDEE\]VDUHSUHVHQW

LQFRDUVHIDEULFVEXWDOVRPDNHXSIRUWKH¿QHVWRIWKH

WDEELHV)LJXUHVKRZVWKDWWKH¿EUHW\SHGRHVQRW

LQÀXHQFHWKHTXDOLW\RIWKHWDEELHVIDEULFVPDGHRXW

RIZRRODUHSUHVHQWLQWKHVDPHUDQJHRITXDOLW\DV

WKRVHPDGHRISODQW¿EUHV,QWKHJURXSRIWZLOOV

DQGGLDPRQGWZLOOVWKHUHVHHPWREHQRGLIIHUHQFHV

LQ TXDOLW\ EHWZHHQ WKH GLIIHUHQW VSLQFRPELQDWLRQV

2

39

2 3 26

11 1 2

6 1

7th century 6

21

1 21

6 1 1

5 1 1 6th century a

b

tabby z/s tabby z/z tabby s/s tabby spin-pattern

2/2 twill z/s 2/2 twill z/z 2/2 twill s/s 2/2 twill spinpattern

diamond twill z/s diamond twill z/z 2/1 twill z/s

)LJ D 'LVWULEXWLRQ RI WKH IDEULF W\SHV IURP WKH

FHPHWHULHV RI %HUJHLMN /HQW/HQWVHYHOG /HXVGHQ

0DDVWULFKW 9ULMWKRI 3DQGKRI  6LQW6HUYDDV FKXUFK

3RVWHUKROWDQG:LMFKHQLQWKH¿IWKVL[WK

)LJ E 'LVWULEXWLRQ RI WKH IDEULF W\SHV IURP WKH

FHPHWHULHV RI %HUJHLMN /HQW/HQWVHYHOG /HXVGHQ

0DDVWULFKW 9ULMWKRI 3DQGKRI  6LQW6HUYDDV FKXUFK

3RVWHUKROWDQG:LMFKHQLQWKHVHYHQWKFHQWXU\

IDEULFVKDYHEHHQIRXQGLQ3RVWHUKROW

0DDVWULFKW

3DQGKRI

DQG:LMFKHQ

7KHGHJUHHRIVSLQRIWKH

\DUQVJUHDWO\LQÀXHQFHVWKHDSSHDUDQFHRIDWH[WLOHDV

ZHOO:KHQORRNLQJDWWKHUHODWLRQEHWZHHQGHJUHHRI

VSLQDQGWKHUHJXODULW\RIWKHIDEULFLWEHFRPHVFOHDU

WKDW IDEULFV WKDW DUH SHUFHLYHG DV UHJXODU JHQHUDOO\

KDYHEHHQPDGHRXWRIUHJXODUO\VSXQ\DUQVZLWKD

ORZ WR PHGLXP WZLVW 0RUHRYHU ORZ DQG PHGLXP

WZLVWHG \DUQV DUH QHDUO\ DOZD\V XVHG WRJHWKHU LQ

ERWKWKUHDGV\VWHPV:HVHOGRPVHHDFRPELQDWLRQ

RI ORZPHGLXP VSXQ WKUHDGV LQ RQH WKUHDG V\VWHP

DQGPHGLXPKLJKVSXQWKUHDGVLQWKHRWKHUV\VWHP

7KLVPDNHVWKHIDEULFVYHU\EDODQFHG&RQWUDVWLQJO\

IDEULFVZLWKDQLUUHJXODUDQGZREEO\DSSHDUDQFHDUH

JHQHUDOO\PDGHRXWRILUUHJXODUO\VSXQWKUHDGVZLWK

D PHGLXP WR KLJK WZLVW 7H[WLOHV ZLWK DQ LUUHJXODU

DSSHDUDQFH RFFXU LQ PXFK VPDOOHU TXDQWLWLHV WKDQ

UHJXODUO\ VSXQ DQG ZRYHQ WH[WLOHV WKHUHIRUH WKH

RYHUDOO TXDOLW\ RI WKH FHPHWHU\ WH[WLOHV LQ WHUPV RI

WH[WXUHLVKLJK

 4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVVKLQLQJREMHFWV

6KLQ\REMHFWVVXFKDVJROGWKUHDGXVHGWRHPEHOOLVK

WKH FORWKLQJ DWWUDFW DWWHQWLRQ DV ZHOO 7KH SODFH

RQH ZRXOG H[SHFW WKDW JROG WKUHDG ZDV DSSOLHG RQ

FORWKHVZRXOGEHWKHDUHDDURXQGWKHKHDGWKHWRUVR

LQFOXGLQJ WKH DUHD RI WKH EHOW ZULVWV DQG IHHW

7KHVH DUHDV DWWUDFWHG E\ LWVHOI PRVW DWWHQWLRQ DQG

ZRXOGKDYHEHHQWKHLGHDOSODFHWRDGGSUHVWLJLRXV

DFFHVVRULHV DQG GHFRUDWLYH HPEURLGHULHV ZLWK JROG

WKUHDG

 &RQFXUUHQWO\ (OLVDEHWK &URZIRRW DQG

6RQLD +DZNHV  H[DPLQLQJ JROGEURFDGHG

EUDLGVIURPWKHWKWKFHQWXULHVIRXQGWKDWWKRVH

GHULYLQJIURPIHPDOHJUDYHVPRVWO\ZHUHIRXQGRQ

WKHKHDGRIWKHGHFHDVHGDQGVXJJHVWHGWKH\PLJKW

3RVWHUKROW¿QGQXPEHU,,,

0DDVWULFKW3DQGKRI¿QGQXPEHUJUDYH

:LMFKHQ¿QGQXPEHU7;DYHU\IUDJLOHDQG

RSHQIDEULFOHVVGLVWLQFWH[DPSOHVDUHSUHVHQWLQ¿QGQXP- EHUV7;7;7;7; 

7;

405. These characteristics have not been documented con- sistently in all cemeteries and the boundary between ‘regular’

DQGµLUUHJXODU¶LVVRPHZKDWVXEMHFWLYHWRVD\WKHOHDVW

Nevertheless it is noteworthy that regular textiles have been documented by the author far more often than irregular ones in all cemeteries.

406. Wells 2008, 68.

¿J    3ODQW ¿EUHV KDYH EHHQ LGHQWL¿HG

RQO\ IRXU WLPHV LQ  WZLOOV PDNLQJ D FRPSDULVRQ

EHWZHHQ¿EUHW\SHVLQWZLOOVIXWLOH7KHVSHFLDO

IDEULFW\SHVDOOKDYHWKUHDGFRXQWVEHWZHHQDQG

WKUHDGVFPXQGHUOLQLQJWKHQRWLRQWKDWWKUHDGFRXQW

LVRQO\RQHRIPDQ\IDFWRUVWKDWFDQGHWHUPLQHWKH

YDOXHRIDIDEULF¿J

 4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVEDVHGRQWH[WXUH

7H[WXUH LV SUREDEO\ RQH RI WKH PRVW LPSRUWDQW

FKDUDFWHULVWLFV RI DQ\ REMHFW ZLWKLQ D EXULDO 7KH

ZD\ WKH OLJKW UHÀHFWV RQ D VXUIDFH GH¿QHV WKH ZD\

ZHSHUFHLYHLWVWH[WXUH7KLVLVYHU\LPSRUWDQWZKHQ

GLVFXVVLQJ WKH UROH DQG TXDOLW\ RI WH[WLOHV FORWKHV

FRQVLVW RI ODUJH VXUIDFHV WKDW DUH DSSUDLVHG E\ WKH

FXWDQGVKDSHRIWKHJDUPHQWVWKHLUFRORXUDQGWKHLU

WH[WXUH7KHSDWWHUQVZRYHQLQWRWKHIDEULFVWKHWKUHDG

FRXQWWKHWKUHDGWKLFNQHVVUHJXODULW\DQGGHJUHHRI

VSLQRIWKH\DUQVDQGWKHGHQVLW\RIWKHIDEULFRSHQ

VSDFHVRUQRWGHWHUPLQHWKHGUDSHIXQFWLRQDOLW\DQG

WH[WXUHRIDIDEULFDQGPD\KDYHSOD\HGDUROHLQWKH

ZD\WH[WLOHVZHUHYDOXHG6HYHUDOZHDYHW\SHVPD\

EHPHQWLRQHGKHUHWKDWZLOOKDYHFDXJKWWKHH\HRI

DQ\ REVHUYHU 5LSSHQN|SHU VSLQSDWWHUQHG IDEULFV

DQGUHSSWDEE\HDFKFUHDWHDSDWWHUQWKDWLVYLVLEOH

ZLWK WKH QDNHG H\H 5LSSHQN|SHU KDV RQO\ EHHQ

REVHUYHGLQ0DDVWULFKW6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFKUHSSLV

SUHVHQWLQDOOWKUHHFHPHWHULHVRI0DDVWULFKWDQGLQ

5KHQHQZKLOHVSLQSDWWHUQHGIDEULFVRFFXULQQHDUO\

HYHU\ FHPHWHU\ H[FHSW /HXVGHQ DQG 0DDVWULFKW

3DQGKRI7KLVLVDOVRWKHFDVHZLWKGLDPRQGWZLOOV

'XH WR WKH VPDOO VL]HV RI WKH UHPDLQLQJ IDEULFV LQ

EXULDOVLWLVRIWHQGLI¿FXOWWRUHFRJQL]HWKHVHSDWWHUQV

DQGWKHUHIRUHLWLVHTXDOO\GLI¿FXOWWRWDVVHVVWKHUDULW\

RIWKHVHIDEULFW\SHVLQWKHFHPHWHULHV1HYHUWKHOHVV

GLDPRQG WZLOOV KDYH EHHQ IRXQG LQ QHDUO\ HYHU\

FHPHWHU\FRQVLGHUHGLQWKLVVWXG\

$QRWKHU DQJOH RI DSSURDFK WRZDUGV WH[WLOH TXDOLW\

LV WR LQFRUSRUDWH WKH GHJUHH RI WZLVW DQG WKUHDG

WKLFNQHVV LQWR WKH SLFWXUH 7KLFN WKUHDGV JHQHUDOO\

UHVXOWLQKHDYLHUIDEULFVWKDWPD\KDYHKDGDGLIIHUHQW

IXQFWLRQWKDQIDEULFVZRYHQRXWRIWKLQWKUHDGV7KLQ

WKUHDGVPD\EHZRYHQLQWRWKLQDQGSOLDQWIDEULFVRU

ZKHQ XVLQJ RQO\ IHZ WKUHDGVFP  EHFRPH IUDJLOH

DQGYHLOOLNHIDEULFV([DPSOHVRIWKHVHIUDJLOHRSHQ

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

2/2 diamond twill 2/2 twill

tabby 2/1 twill

a

c

b

d

D 4XDOLW\ RI WH[WLOHV IURP %HUJHLMN PHDVXUHG LQ WKUHDGVFP ([FHSWLRQDOO\ ¿QH WH[WLOHV ZHUH IRXQG LQ

women’s graves 50 and 89.

8.5b. Quality of textiles from Lent-Lentseveld, measured in threads/cm. The fragment of exceptionally high thread count was found in women’s grave 23.

8.5c. Quality of textiles from Leusden, measured in threads/cm.

G4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVIURP0DDVWULFKW±9ULMWKRIPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP:RPHQ¶VJUDYHFRQWDLQHGWKH

¿QHVWWH[WLOHV

H4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVIURP0DDVWULFKW±3DQGKRIPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP7KH¿QHVWWH[WLOHVZHUHIRXQGLQ

graves 11341 and 10128.

I4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVIURP0DDVWULFKW±6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFKPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP9HU\¿QHWH[WLOHVZHUH

found in graves 1, 26, 137 and 164 (sex unknown)

8.5g. Quality of textiles from Posterholt, measured in threads/cm.

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

rippenköper 2/2 diamond twill 2/2 twill

tabby e

g

f

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

2/2 diamond twill 2/2 twill

tabby

i j

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X h

2/1 twill 3/1 twill 3/3 twill

K4XDOLW\RIWKHWZLOOVIURP5KHQHQPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP7KH¿QHVWWH[WLOHVIURP5KHQHQZHUHIRXQGLQ

graves 73 (F), 413 (F), 433 (F), 460 (M), 476 (M) and 733 (?).

8.5i. Quality of the tabbies from Rhenen, measured in threads/cm

M4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHV:LMFKHQPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP

EH WKH vittae RIWHQ PHQWLRQHG LQ GHVFULSWLRQV RI

KLJKERUQ )UDQNLVK ODGLHV 7KH RFFXUUHQFH RI JROG

WKUHDGLQDJUDYHRI0DDVWULFKW±6LQW6HUYDDVFKXUFK

DQG WZR JUDYHV RI 0DDVWULFKW3DQGKRI LV WKHUHIRUH

FRQVLGHUHGDVDVLJQRIKLJKTXDOLW\DQGZHDOWK

 4XDOLW\RIWH[WLOHVRYHUWLPH

7KHFHPHWHU\RI:LMFKHQKDVWKHJUHDWHVWSRWHQWLDO

IRU FRPSDULQJ WKH FKURQRORJ\ RI WH[WLOHV ZLWKLQ D

VLQJOHFHPHWHU\ZLWKWH[WLOHVIURPWKH¿IWKVL[WK

FHQWXU\DQGWH[WLOHVIURPWKHVHYHQWKFHQWXU\7KH

TXDOLW\RIWKHVHWH[WLOHVKDVEHHQSURMHFWHGLQ¿J

+HUHLWEHFRPHVREYLRXVWKDWWKHUHDUHQRGLIIHUHQFHV

UHJDUGLQJWKUHDGFRXQWEHWZHHQWKHVL[WKDQGVHYHQWK

FHQWXU\ 6LQFH WKH RWKHU FHPHWHULHV GR QRW SURYLGH

HQRXJKGDWDEOHIUDJPHQWVWRDQDO\VHWKHGHYHORSPHQW

ZLWKLQ WKH LQGLYLGXDO EXULDO VLWHV WKH WH[WLOHV IURP

WKHVHFHPHWHULHVKDYHEHHQJURXSHGWRJHWKHUDJDLQ

EXW DV ZH FDQ VHH LQ ¿J DE QR GLIIHUHQFHV

EHWZHHQERWKSHULRGVFRXOGEHHVWDEOLVKHG

&URZIRRW &KDGZLFN+DZNHV 

 &RQFOXVLRQVUHJDUGLQJWH[WLOHTXDOLW\

6RPH RI WKH FHPHWHULHV FRQWDLQ WH[WLOHV WKDW DUH LQ

JHQHUDORIDKLJKHUTXDOLW\WKDQRWKHUV7KHIUDJPHQWV

IURP WKH WKUHH FHPHWHULHV IURP 0DDVWULFKW DQG

/HXVGHQ ZHUH ZRYHQ LQ KLJKHU WKUHDG FRXQWV WKDQ

WKRVHIURPWKHRWKHUVLWHV0RUHRYHUWKHFHPHWHULHV

RI0DDVWULFKWFRQWDLQJROGWKUHDGDQGVHYHUDOW\SHV

RIVSHFLDOIDEULFVPDNLQJWKHVHVLWHVVWDQGRXWIURP

WKH RWKHUV LQ WHUPV RI WH[WLOH TXDOLW\ 5KHQHQ DOVR

FRQWDLQVVHYHUDOVSHFLDOIDEULFW\SHVDQGWKHWH[WLOHV

IURPWKLVVLWHDUHRIDUHODWLYHKLJKTXDOLW\DVZHOO7KH

RWKHUFHPHWHULHVDUHUDWKHUKRPRJHQHRXVLQWHUPVRI

WH[WLOHTXDOLW\6RPHVXFKDV3RVWHUKROWDQG:LMFKHQ

FRQWDLQ VSHFLDO IDEULFV DV ZHOO KHUH H[DPSOHV RI

YHLOOLNH IDEULFV KDYH EHHQ IRXQG 'LDPRQG WZLOOV

RFFXU LQ QHDUO\ DOO FHPHWHULHV DQG PXVW KDYH EHHQ

IDUPRUHUHJXODUWKDQZHFDQMXGJHRQWKHEDVLVRI

FHPHWHU\WH[WLOHVRQO\

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

tabby z/s tabby z/z

tabby spin-pattern tabby s/s

Fig. 8.6. Quality of the different types of tabby (from all cemeteries), measured in threads/cm.

8.4 RECONSTRUCTING BURIAL GARMENTS

7KH WH[WLOH IUDJPHQWV WKDW KDYH EHHQ SUHVHUYHG LQ

WKHFRUURVLRQRIWKHPHWDOREMHFWVLQWKHJUDYHVDUH

JHQHUDOO\FRQVLGHUHGWREHWKHUHPDLQVRIWKHFORWKHV

LQ ZKLFK WKH GHDG ZHUH EXULHG DQG RI RWKHU JUDYH

WH[WLOHVVXFKDVVKURXGVPDWWUHVVFRYHUVHWF

6HYHUDODUFKDHRORJLVWVKDYHDWWHPSWHGWRUHFRQVWUXFW

WKHFORWKLQJRIWKHGHDGXVLQJWKHGUHVVDFFHVVRULHV

DQGWH[WLOHVIRXQGLQEXULDOV7KLVUHVXOWHG±DVZLOO

EH GLVFXVVHG EHORZ ± LQ YDULRXV UHFRQVWUXFWLRQV RI

HDUO\PHGLHYDOGUHVV*HLMHUZDVRQHRIWKH¿UVWWR

DWWHPSW D UHFRQVWUXFWLRQ RI ZRPHQ¶V GUHVV LQ WKH

6ZHGLVKWRZQRI%LUNDLQKHUSXEOLFDWLRQRI+HU

UHFRQVWUXFWLRQVZHUHSDUWO\EDVHGRQWKHDQDO\VHVRI

DVHOHFWLRQRIWKHWH[WLOHVIURPWKLVVLWHEXWVKHDOVR

UHOLHG RQ WKH HYLGHQFH GHULYHG IURP FRQWHPSRUDU\

PHWDO¿JXULQHVDQGWKHUDWKHUFRQVHUYDWLYHQDWLRQDO

FRVWXPHWUDGLWLRQRIWKHDUHD)URPWKLVVKHJDWKHUHG

WKDW ZRPHQ ZHUH GUHVVHG LQ D SOHDWHG XQGHUVKLUW

D SLQDIRUH GUHVV DQG D PDQWOH

 ,QJD +lJJ WRRN D

VRPHZKDW GLIIHUHQW DSSURDFK 6KH FKRVH WR IRFXV

RQ WKH DUFKDHRORJLFDO HYLGHQFH WKH WH[WLOHV FRXOG

SURYLGHDQGGLGQRWXVHKLVWRULFDOVRXUFHVDVPXFKDV

*HLMHUGLG:KLOHVKHDQDO\VHGDOORIWKHRYHU

*HLMHU

0 5 10 15 20 25 30

0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

tabby z/s wool tabby z/s plant?

tabby z/z wool tabby z/z plant?

Fig. 8.7. Quality of the tabbies (from all cemeteries) PDGH RXW RI ZRRO DQG SODQW ¿EUHV PHDVXUHG LQ

threads/cm.

0 5 10 15 20 25

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

diamond twill z/s diamond twill z/z

diamond twill s/s diamond twill spin-pattern

0 5 10 15 20

0 5 10 15 20

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

rippenköper 2/1 twill z/s

2/1 twill z/z 3/1 twill

3/3 twill

Fig. 8.8. Quality of the different types of 2/2 twill (from all cemeteries), measured in threads/cm.

Fig. 8.9. Quality of the different types of broken diamond twill (from all cemeteries), measured in threads/cm.

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

2/2 twill z/s 2/2 twill z/z

2/2 twill s/s 2/2 twill spin-pattern

Fig. 8.10. Quality of the different special fabrics, measured in threads/cm

SLHFHVRIWH[WLOHVIURPWKLVVLWH+lJJWRRNJUHDWFDUH

WRGRFXPHQWERWKWKHWHFKQLFDOFKDUDFWHULVWLFVRIWKH

WH[WLOHVEXWDOVRWKHSRVLWLRQRIWKHPHWDOREMHFWVLQ

WKHJUDYHDVZHOODVWKHVWUDWLJUDSK\RIWKHWH[WLOHV

LQ UHODWLRQ WR WKH REMHFWV WKH\ ZHUH DWWDFKHG WR

PDNLQJVFKHPDWLFGUDZLQJVRIWKLVVWUDWLJUDSK\7KLV

V\VWHPDWLFDSSURDFKUHVXOWHGLQQHZLGHDVUHJDUGLQJ

%LUNDZRPHQ¶VGUHVV)URPWKLV+lJJFRQFOXGHGWKDW

WKHUHZHUHRWKHUJDUPHQWVSUHVHQWLQWKHFHPHWHU\DV

ZHOOZRPHQZRXOGKDYHZRUQDOLQHQWXQLFXQGHU

WKHLUSLQDIRUHGUHVVDQGDVOHHYHGFDIWDQZKLFKZDV

RIWHQGHFRUDWHGZLWKEDQGVRIVLONDQGVLOYHUWKUHDG

DQGZDVFORVHGDWWKHIURQWE\DQRYDOEURRFK

/RRNLQJEDFN+lJJPD\EHFRQVLGHUHGRQHRIWKH

SUHFXUVRUVRIDV\VWHPDWLFDSSURDFKWRZDUGVWH[WLOH

DUFKDHRORJ\ ZKLFK XVHV DQ REMHFWEDVHG DSSURDFK

IRFXVVLQJRQERWKWKHWH[WLOHVDVZHOODVWKHREMHFWV

WKH\ZHUHDWWDFKHGWR3DUDOOHOWRWKLVZD\RIFDUU\LQJ

RXW WH[WLOH UHVHDUFK DQRWKHU REMHFWEDVHG DSSURDFK

KDVEHHQSUDFWLFHGIRUVHYHUDOGHFDGHV7KLVDSSURDFK

¿WVLQDWUDGLWLRQZKHUHLQW\SRORJLHVFKURQRORJLFDO

VFKHPHV DQG GLVWULEXWLRQ PDSV DUH D PHDQV WR

GLVWLQJXLVK ODUJHVFDOH GHYHORSPHQWV WKURXJK WLPH

DQG VSDFH 8VLQJ WKH FKURQRORJ\ RI EURRFKHV DQG

WKHSRVLWLRQRIWKHVHEURRFKHVRQWKHERG\VFKRODUV

KDYH UHFRQVWUXFWHG WKH ZD\ SHRSOH PD\ KDYH EHHQ

GUHVVHG LQ GLIIHUHQW UHJLRQV DQG GLIIHUHQW SHULRGV

7KH RXWFRPH RI WKHVH DQDO\VHV KDV RIWHQ EHHQ

GHVFULEHG LQ WHUPV RI Tracht or Fibeltracht EXW LQ

IDFWQRV\VWHPDWLFWH[WLOHDQDO\VHVKDYHFRQWULEXWHG

WR WKH RXWFRPH RI WKHVH VWXGLHV 0DQ\ H[DPSOHV

RI WKLV DSSURDFK KDYH EHHQ SXEOLVKHG LQ *HUPDQ

OLWHUDWXUHE\DPRQJRWKHUV9LHUFN0DUWLQ0XOOHU

 6WHXHU 6LHJPXQG DQG 6WUDXȕ

 6RPH RI WKHVH

ZHUH SXUHO\ REMHFWEDVHG ZKLOH RWKHUV ± VXFK DV

0DUWLQ ± DOVR LQFRUSRUDWHG FRQWHPSRUDU\ KLVWRULFDO

GHSLFWLRQV RI GUHVV 3UREOHPDWLF LQ WKLV W\SH RI

SXEOLFDWLRQVLV±DVSRLQWHGRXWE\6LHJPXQGWKDW

WKHUH RIWHQ LV QR DWWHQWLRQ IRU WKH IDFW WKDW REMHFWV

PD\KDYHEHHQPRYHGGXULQJRUDIWHUEXULDORUWKDW

REMHFWV PD\ KDYH EHHQ UHPRYHG IURP WKH EXULDO

DOWRJHWKHU

 )XUWKHUPRUH 0DUWLQ VWUHVVHG WKH IDFW

409. Hägg 1983, 334.

9LHUFNDF0DUWLQ0OOHU 6WHXHU

6WUDXǃ(*6LHJPXQG)

6LHJPXQG

Fig. 8.11. Quality of the sixth century (a) and seventh FHQWXU\ E WH[WLOHV IURP WKH FHPHWHULHV RI %HUJHLMN

Lent-Lentseveld, Leusden, Posterholt, Maastricht- 9ULMWKRI 0DDVWULFKW3DQGKRI DQG 0DDVWULFKW  6LQW

6HUYDDVFKXUFKPHDVXUHGLQWKUHDGVFP

0 5 10 15 20

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X 6th century a

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35

Number of threads/cm Y

Number of threads/cm X 7th century

tabby b

WKDW RQH FDQ PDNH PDQ\ LQWHUSUHWDWLRQV RI GUHVV

EDVHGRQWKHVDPHVHWRIGUHVVDFFHVVRULHV

(YHQ

ZKHQDGGLQJWH[WLOHGDWDWRWKHSLFWXUHVNHWFKHGE\

WKHGUHVVDFFHVVRULHVWKHUHLVVWLOOURRPIRUYDULDWLRQ

7KH EXULDO RI TXHHQ$UQHJXQGH LV D JRRG H[DPSOH

RI VXFK GLIIHUHQW LQWHUSUHWDWLRQV :KHUH SUHYLRXV

UHFRQVWUXFWLRQVEDVHGPDLQO\RQWKHFRQ¿JXUDWLRQRI

WKHGUHVVDFFHVVRULHVDQGDFXUVRU\DQDO\VLVRIVRPH

RIWKHWH[WLOHVGHSLFWHGWKLVZRPDQLQDNQHHOHQJWK

GUHVVVKRZLQJGHFRUDWHGJDUWHUVEHQHDWK

¿J

FXUUHQWLQWHUSUHWDWLRQVDUHFRPSOHWHO\GLIIHUHQW7KHVH

DUHEDVHGRQDV\VWHPDWLFUHDQDO\VLVRIWKHWHFKQLFDO

FKDUDFWHULVWLFVRIWKHIDEULFVDQGDUHFRQVWUXFWLRQRI

WKHSRVLWLRQRIWKHWH[WLOHVRQWKHGUHVVDFFHVVRULHV

DQG RQ WKH ERG\ ZKLFK LQIRUPDWLRQ ZDV JOHDQHG

IURPWKHVSDUVHVXUYLYLQJH[FDYDWLRQGRFXPHQWDWLRQ

DQG WKH SUHVHQFH RI WH[WLOHV RQ VNHOHWDO UHPDLQV E\ 'HVURVLHUV DQG 5DVW(LFKHU VRPHWKLQJ WKDW KDG

SUHYLRXVO\ QRW EHHQ GRQH7KLV QHZ UHFRQVWUXFWLRQ

VKRZVDZRPDQGUHVVHGLQDQDQNOHOHQJWKUREHZLWK

HPEURLGHUHG VOHHYHV WKDW LV RSHQ DW WKH IURQW DQG

FRPSOHWHO\ FRYHUV WKH GHFRUDWHG JDUWHUV 7KH IURQW

RSHQLQJ RI WKH JDUPHQW ZDV GHFRUDWHG ZLWK ZLGH

VLONHQWDEOHWZRYHQEDQGVDQGWKHFORDNZDVIDVWHQHG

XQGHUWKHFKLQZLWKDVLQJOHEURRFKDQGDURXQGWKH

ZDLVWZLWKDQHODERUDWHO\GHFRUDWHGEHOW8QGHUWKLV

JRZQWKHTXHHQZRUHWZRJDUPHQWVRQHPDGHRXWRI

ZRRODQGXQGHUQHDWKSUREDEO\DOLQHQXQGHUJDUPHQW

2QKHUKHDGDQGVKRXOGHUVZDVDYHLO

&XUUHQW WH[WLOH UHVHDUFK PRUH RU OHVV FRPELQHV WKH

DERYHGHVFULEHGWZRREMHFWEDVHGDSSURDFKHV7KHVH

PRGHUQ VWXGLHV LQWHJUDWH D V\VWHPDWLF WHFKQLFDO

GRFXPHQWDWLRQ RI WKH WH[WLOHV LQFOXGLQJ WKHLU

VWUDWLJUDSKLFUHODWLRQZLWKWKHPHWDOGUHVVDFFHVVRULHV

WKH\DUHDGKHUHGWR)XUWKHUPRUHWKH\XVHLQIRUPDWLRQ

DERXW WKH ORFDWLRQ RI WKH GUHVV DFFHVVRULHV RQ WKH

ERG\,WLVKRZHYHULPSRUWDQWWRNHHSLQPLQGWKDW

ZHGHDOZLWKIXQHUDODWWLUHVDQGWKDWWKHSODFHPHQW

RIJDUPHQWVDQGGUHVVDFFHVVRULHVGRQRWQHFHVVDULO\

UHÀHFW KRZ WKH FORWKLQJ ZDV ZRUQ )XUWKHUPRUH

WKHUH LV HYLGHQFH IURP D QXPEHU RI EXULDOV WKDW

412. Martin 1991, 652-654.

413. Martin 1991, 639.

'HVURVLHUV6 $5DVW(LFKHU3pULQHWDO

2012.

¿EXODV ZHUH SODFHG LQ FDVHV DQG ZHUH QRW XVHG DV

GUHVVDFFHVVRULHVIRUWKHEXULDOJDUPHQWV

$IWHUDOO

GDWDKDVEHHQDFTXLUHGDQGDSLFWXUHHPHUJHVRIWKH

VWUDWLJUDSK\RIIDEULFVWKDWKDYHFORWKHGWKHERG\DQG

WKHSRVLWLRQVZKHUHGUHVVDFFHVVRULHVZHUHSUHVHQWWR

¿[DWHWKHVHJDUPHQWVWKH\UHIHUWRKLVWRULFDOVRXUFHV

VXFK DV VFXOSWXUHV LOOXPLQDWLRQV DQG PRVDLFV WR

GHWHUPLQHWKHSRVVLEOHZD\VLQZKLFKWKHJDUPHQWV

PD\ KDYH EHHQ ZRUQ )RU GHWDLOV VXFK DV WKHVH ZH

QHHGWRORRNLQWRKLVWRULFDOGRFXPHQWVFRQFHUQLQJRU

PHQWLRQLQJHDUO\PHGLHYDOJDUPHQWVDQGGUHVVFRGH

)RU WKH HDUOLHVW SKDVHV DIWHU WKH 5RPDQ SHULRG ZH

PD\DOVRUHO\RQVRPHFRQWLQXDWLRQRIWKHGUHVVDVLV

VHHQRQ5RPDQVFXOSWXUHVDQGGHVFULEHGE\5RPDQ

KLVWRULDQV :ULWWHQ VRXUFHV IURP WKH HDUO\ 0LGGOH

$JHVLQFOXGHDQHQXPHUDEOHDPRXQWRIGHVFULSWLRQV

RI FORWKHV DQG WKHLU FRQWH[W LQ HYHU\GD\ OLIH EXW

415. Bartel 2003.

)LJ  (DUO\ UHFRQVWUXFWLRQ RI WKH JDUPHQWV RI

TXHHQ$UQHJXQGH0DUWLQ

WKHVHVKRXOGEHXVHGLQDFULWLFDOZD\/LWHUDU\WH[WV

IRUH[DPSOHPD\PHQWLRQSLHFHVRIFORWKLQJWKDWDUH

¿FWLRQDORUDUHGHVFULEHGLQVXFKDZD\DVWRPHHWWKH

QHHGVRIWKHDXWKRUVWRU\DXGLHQFHHWF

2WKHUW\SHV

RI WH[WV VXFK DV KDJLRJUDSKLFDO JHQUHV KRZHYHU

LQFOXGHYHU\XVHIXOGHVFULSWLRQVRISLHFHVRIFORWKLQJ

KRZZKHQDQGE\ZKRPWKH\ZHUHZRUQQRWRQO\RI

WKHXSSHUFODVVHVRIVRFLHW\EXWDOVRRIWKHORZHU)RU

WKHHLJKWKFHQWXU\RQZDUGVVHYHUDOPDQXVFULSWVDUH

DYDLODEOH±VXFKDVWKH6WXWWJDUW3VDOWHU±FRQWDLQLQJ

LOOXPLQDWLRQV ZKLFK GHSLFW FORWKLQJ IURP ERWK

WKH ZRUNLQJ FODVVHV DQG WKH QRELOLW\ )URP WKHVH

PDQXVFULSWVZHJDWKHULQIRUPDWLRQDERXWWKHGUDSH

RI FORWKHV IRU LQVWDQFH WKDW WKH\ ZHUH QRW ORRVH

JDUPHQWVEXWUDWKHUWLJKW¿WWLQJDQGIDVWHQHGDWWKH

ZDLVW ZLWK D FRUG RU EHOW7RJHWKHU WKHVH KLVWRULFDO

WH[WV SURYLGH XV ZLWK WKH JHQHUDO SLFWXUH RI HDUO\

PHGLHYDOGUHVVDQGLW¶VVRFLDOFRQWH[W,GHDOO\DVWXG\

RI WKH PDWHULDO UHPDLQV RI WKHVH JDUPHQWV LQYROYHV

WKH DYDLODEOH KLVWRULFDO VRXUFHV *RRG H[DPSOHV RI

WKLV KDYH EHHQ SXEOLVKHG E\:DOWRQ 5RJHU ZKR LV

FULWLFDORIWKHGLIIHUHQWVRXUFHVVKHXVHVDOORZVIRU

GLIIHUHQWLDWLRQ EHWZHHQ JHQGHU DQG DJH JURXSV DQG

RIWHQSURYLGHVVHYHUDODOWHUQDWLYHVWRUHFRQVWUXFWWKH

FORWKVLQDVLQJOHEXULDO

,Q WKLV VWXG\ WKH WH[WLOH UHPQDQWV IURP WKH 'XWFK

EXULDOV ZHUH VXEMHFWHG WR D VLPLODU DSSURDFK 7KH

VLPSOH IDFW WKDW WH[WLOHV DUH RQO\ SUHVHUYHG LQ

FRQQHFWLRQWRPHWDOREMHFWVPHDQVWKDWRQO\DPHDJUH

VDPSOHRIWKHRULJLQDODEXQGDQFHRIFORWKDQGFORWKLQJ

LQDEXULDOUHPDLQV7KHUHIRUHLWZRXOGEHRSWLPLVWLF

WRDVVXPHWKDWLWLVSRVVLEOHWRIXOO\UHFRQVWUXFWWKH

XVH RI IDEULF LQ JUDYHV RU WKH VKDSH DQG ¿W RI WKH

DFWXDOJDUPHQWV1RQHWKHOHVVWKHGDWDVHWGRHVDOORZ

FRQFOXVLRQV EDVHG RQ WKH VWUDWLJUDSKLF SRVLWLRQ RI

FHUWDLQWH[WLOHIUDJPHQWVRQWKHERG\DQGLQUHODWLRQ

WRWKHGUHVVDFFHVVRULHV8VLQJWKLVLQIRUPDWLRQLWKDV

EHHQDWWHPSWHGWRUHFRQVWUXFWZKLFKW\SHVRIIDEULFV

ZHUHXVHGRQVSHFL¿FDUHDVRIWKHERG\DQGZKLFK

W\SHVRIWH[WLOHVZHUHZRUQRYHURUXQGHUHDFKRWKHU

7KLV UHVHDUFK SURYLGHV XV ZLWK LQIRUPDWLRQ RQ WKH

ORRNDQGIHHORIWKHIDEULFVRXWRIZKLFKWKHFORWKHV

6HHIRUDGHWDLOHGGHVFULSWLRQRIWKLVSKHQRPHQRQ&RRQ

1997.

417. Walton Rogers 2007. Other examples have been recently SXEOLVKHGE\2ZHQ&URFNHU5DVW(LFKHU

ZHUHPDGH$IXOOVWXG\RIOLWHUDU\VRXUFHVJRHVIDU

EH\RQG WKH VFRSH RI WKLV SURMHFW DQG VLQFH D ORW RI

UHVHDUFK KDV DOUHDG\ EHHQ GRQH UHJDUGLQJ GUHVV LQ

KLVWRULFDOVRXUFHV,ZLOOUHIUDLQIURPUHSHDWLQJWKLV

DQGZLOOEULHÀ\VXPPDUL]HZKDWKDVEHHQSXEOLVKHG

RQWKLVVXEMHFWLQVHFWLRQ,QVHFWLRQWKH

HYLGHQFHIURPJUDYHVIURPWKH1HWKHUODQGVZLOOEH

SUHVHQWHGZKLFKLVIROORZHGE\DGLVFXVVLRQRIERWK

VRXUFHVLQVHFWLRQ

 5HFRQVWUXFWLRQ RI HDUO\ PHGLHYDO GUHVV

EDVHGRQSUHYLRXVUHVHDUFK 8.4.1.1 Women’s clothing

,Q WKH HDUOLHVW FHQWXULHV DIWHU WKH 5RPDQ SHULRG

IRXUWK¿IWKFHQWXU\ZRPHQLQWKHDUHDVDURXQGWKH

1HWKHUODQGV JHQHUDOO\ ZRXOG KDYH ZRUQ JDUPHQWV

PDGH RXW RI D ZLGH WXEXODU RU UHFWDQJXODU FORWK

ORRVHO\ZUDSSHGDURXQGWKHERG\DQGIDVWHQHGDWWKH

VKRXOGHUVRUWKHXSSHUWRUVRE\WZREURRFKHV7KLV

W\SHRIJDUPHQWKDGDOUHDG\EHHQLQXVHIRUFHQWXULHV

DQG LV FDOOHG D SHSORVJRZQ ±GHULYHG IURP WKH

*UHHNZRUGʌİʌȜȠȢGHQRWLQJDVLPLODUO\FRQVWUXFWHG

JDUPHQW ZRUQ E\ ZRPHQ LQ DQWLTXLW\ &RPSOHWH

H[DPSOHV RI WKLV JDUPHQW KDYH EHHQ IRXQG LQ ,URQ

$JH 'HQPDUN LQ +XOGUHPRVH  %& DQG

RQHXQNQRZQORFDWLRQ%&

7KHSHSORV

FRQWLQXHGWREHXVHGLQQRUWKHUQ(XURSHLQWKH5RPDQ

SHULRGDVLVWHVWL¿HGE\QXPHURXV5RPDQVFXOSWXUHV

DPRQJ ZKLFK WKH FROXPQ RI 0DUFXV $XUHOLXV GHSLFWLQJ *HUPDQLF ZRPHQ 7KH RFFXUUHQFH RI

SDLUVRI¿EXODHRQWKHVKRXOGHUVLQZRPHQ¶VJUDYHV

LV FRPPRQ WKURXJKRXW QRUWKHUQ (XURSH XS XQWLO

WKH IRXUWK FHQWXU\ DQG WKLV LV FRQVLGHUHG SURRI RI

WKH ZLGHVSUHDG DQG FRQWLQXHG XVH RI WKLV W\SH RI

JDUPHQWLQWKLVSHULRG

5RPDQVFXOSWXUHVSURYLGH

XVZLWKPRUHLQIRUPDWLRQRQWKHVKDSHDQGGUDSHRI

WKLVJDUPHQW7KHSHSORVZDVRIWHQVHFXUHGDURXQG

WKH ZDLVW E\ D EHOW DQG WKH IDEULF SUREDEO\ SDUWO\

SRXFKHGRYHUWKHEHOW+DQJLQJIURPWKHEHOWZHUH

DOOVRUWVRIXWHQVLOVHLWKHUKDQJLQJORRVHO\IURPWKH

EHOW RU LQ D SRXFK VXVSHQGHG IURP WKH EHOW 0RVW

VFXOSWXUHVVKRZWKDWWKHSHSORVZDVJHQHUDOO\ZRUQ

+DOGVHH0DQQHULQJHD

IRUWKHPRVWUHFHQWGDWHVRIWKHVH¿QGV

419. Owen-Crocker 2004, 42-54.

ORQJDQNOHOHQJWKEXWLWPD\DOVRKDYHEHHQZRUQ

VRPHZKDW VKRUWHU FDOYHOHQJWK RU HYHQ VKRUWHU

SHUKDSVVKRZLQJWKHORZHUSDUWRIWKHXQGHUJDUPHQW

7KHVKRXOGHUV DQGDUPVZRXOG KDYHEHHQOHIWEDUH

DQGLWLVDVVXPHGWKDWZRPHQZRUHDQXQGHUJDUPHQW

XQGHUWKHSHSORVWRFRYHUWKHDUPVDQGSURYLGHH[WUD

ZDUPWK 1RW PDQ\ GHWDLOV DUH NQRZQ UHJDUGLQJ

XQGHUJDUPHQWVEHFDXVHWKH\ZHUHIRUWKHPRVWSDUW

FRYHUHGE\WKHSHSORVDQGDUHRQO\SDUWLDOO\YLVLEOH

RQ VFXOSWXUHV 7KH\ VHHP WR KDYH KDG UDWKHU WLJKW

¿WWLQJVOHHYHVDQGLQVRPHUHJLRQVVXFKDV(QJODQG

DQG 6FDQGLQDYLD WKH\ ZHUH IDVWHQHG DW WKH ZULVWV

ZLWKRQHRUPRUHZULVWFODVSV

)LQGVIURP$QJOR

6D[RQ (QJODQG VKRZ XV WKDW WKH HGJHV RI ERWK WKH

SHSORV DQG WKH XQGHUJDUPHQW ZHUH RIWHQ GHFRUDWHG

RUUHLQIRUFHGZLWKWDEOHWZRYHQEUDLGVRUWKHVWDUWLQJ

ERUGHUVRIWKHIDEULFZHUHPDGHLQWDEOHWZHDYH

7KLV ZDV QRW RQO\ GHFRUDWLYH EXW DOVR IXQFWLRQDO

EHFDXVHWKHVHEUDLGVDUHPXFKVWURQJHUWKDQQRUPDO

IDEULFVDQGZRXOGKDYHUHLQIRUFHGWKHDUHDVDWWDFKHG

WR WKH EURRFKHV VLJQL¿FDQWO\ 7KHUH LV QRW PXFK

NQRZQ DERXW ZKDW W\SH RI JDUPHQW ZDV XVHG WR

FRYHUWKHOHJVRUZKHWKHUWKH\ZHUHFRYHUHGDWDOO

$ ORQJ SHSORV FRPELQHG ZLWK RQH RU PRUH ORQJ

XQGHUJDUPHQWV ZRXOG KDYH EHHQ TXLWH ZDUP E\

LWVHOIEXWZHFDQQRWEHFHUWDLQLIZRPHQZRUHVRFNV

KRVHOHJELQGLQJVRUWURXVHUVDVZHOO/DVWO\WKHUHLV

HYLGHQFHIRUWKHXVHRIFORDNVRYHUWKHSHSORVJRZQ

7KHVHFRXOGEHIDVWHQHGRQWKHFKHVWDWRQHVKRXOGHU

RUWXFNHGLQWRWKHEHOW$QH[DPSOHRIWKHRFFXUUHQFH

RIWKHVHJDUPHQWVKDVEHHQREVHUYHGE\9RQV&RPLV

LQ WKH JUDYH RI WKH VRFDOOHG 3ULQFHVV RI =ZHHORR

7KLVJUDYHIURPWKHPLGGOHRIWKH¿IWKFHQWXU\ZDV

H[FDYDWHG LQ  LQ WKH QRUWK RI WKH 1HWKHUODQGV

DQGTXLFNO\UHFHLYHGWKHHSLWKHWRIDSULQFHO\JUDYH

GXH WR WKH ULFK JUDYH DVVHPEO\ 6LQFH WKHQ PDQ\

PRUHJUDYHVKDYHEHHQXQFRYHUHGDQGZHQRZNQRZ

WKDWWKHJUDYHJRRGVLQWKLVZRPDQ¶VJUDYHDUHQRW

H[WUDRUGLQDULO\ ULFK DW DOO DQG WKDW WKH JUDYH LV QRW

OLNHO\DSULQFHO\EXULDO1HYHUWKHOHVVJUHDWDWWHQWLRQ

KDVEHHQJLYHQWRWKHDWWLUHRIWKHEXULHGZRPDQ

7KHZRPDQZDVGUHVVHGLQDSHSORVJRZQPDGHRXW

0DQ\H[DPSOHVRIZULVWFODVSVKDYHEHHQIRXQGLQ(QJ- ODQGDQG6FDQGLQDYLD2ZHQ&URFNHU

421. Owen-Crocker 2004, 52, 56-57. No evidence for this has been documented in the Netherlands yet.

9DQ(V <SH\9RQV&RPLV

RIDOLQHQIDEULFZRYHQLQGLDPRQGWZLOO7KLVJRZQ

ZDVIDVWHQHGDWWKHVKRXOGHUVE\WZRGLVFEURRFKHV

2YHUWKHJRZQVKHZRUHDZRROOHQFORDNRUVKDZO

IDVWHQHGE\DQRWKHUEURRFK¿J

)URPWKHHQGRIWKH¿IWKFHQWXU\UHJLRQDOGLIIHUHQFHV

VWDUWWREHFRPHYLVLEOHLQWKHDUFKDHRORJLFDOUHFRUG

:DOWRQ5RJHUVFRQFOXGHGWKDWPRVWRI$QJOR6D[RQ

(QJODQG FRQWLQXHG ZHDULQJ WKH SHSORV JRZQ IRU DW

OHDVWDFHQWXU\

7KHGUHVVRI)UDQNLVKZRPHQRQ

WKHFRQWLQHQWDQGRIZRPHQLQWKHHDVWRI.HQWLV

GRPLQDWHG E\ D GLIIHUHQW IDVKLRQ +HUH WKH SDLUHG

VKRXOGHU EURRFKHV FHDVH WR RFFXU ZKLFK OHDGV WR

WKH FRQFOXVLRQ WKDW WKH SHSORVJRZQ GLVDSSHDUHG

DQG ZDV UHSODFHG E\ D GLIIHUHQW VHW RI FORWKLQJ

7KHFRQ¿JXUDWRQRIGUHVVDFFHVVRULHVLQWKLVSHULRG

LV E\ PDQ\ DXWKRUV FKDUDFWHULVHG DV WKH VRFDOOHG

423. Walton Rogers 2007, 151.

Fig. 8.13 Reconstruction of the peplos-gown of the

³SULQFHVVRI=ZHHORR´9RQV&RPLV

9LHU¿EHOWUDFKW WKH RFFXUUHQFH RI IRXU EURRFKHV LQ

DPRUHRUOHVVYHUWLFDOOLQHRQWKHERG\7KHXSSHU

WZR EURRFKHVZHUHJHQHUDOO\DSDLURI VPDOOURXQG

EURRFKHVZKHUHDVWKHORZHUWZRZHUHDVHWRIODUJHU

ERZEURRFKHV

%URRFKFRQ¿JXUDWLRQDORQHKRZHYHU

ZLOOQRWH[SODLQKRZZRPHQZHUHDFWXDOO\GUHVVHG

EHFDXVH VHYHUDO YDULDWLRQV DUH SRVVLEOH XVLQJ WKH

VDPHEURRFKFRQ¿JXUDWLRQDQGHYHQXVLQJWKHVDPH

VWUDWLJUDSK\ RI WH[WLOHV &XUUHQW GD\ SXEOLFDWLRQV ±

VXFKDV:DOWRQ5RJHUVJLYHURRPIRUWKHVHGLIIHUHQW

SRVVLELOLWLHV %DVHG RQ WKH WH[WLOH ¿QGV DVVRFLDWHG

ZLWK WKH EURRFKHV LW LV OLNHO\ WKDW WKH ORZHU VHW RI

EURRFKHV ZDV XVHG WR IDVWHQ D FORDN DQG WKDW WKH

XSSHUKDGWKHVDPHIXQFWLRQRUZHUHXVHGWRFORVH

WKHKHDGDSHUWXUHRIWKHJRZQEHQHDWKWKHFORDN¿J



 7KLV PRGHO KDV EHHQ WDNHQ DV D UHIHUHQFH

6HHWKHYDULRXVFRQWULEXWLRQVE\9LHUFNH0DUWLQ

 6WUDXǃ6LHJPXQG

6HHIRUH[DPSOH:DOWRQ5RJHUV¿J

for various reconstructions of the dress associated with the 9LHU¿EHOWUDFKW.

LQ WKLV WKHVLV DQG LW KDV EHHQ FKHFNHG ZKHWKHU WKH

WH[WLOHV WKDW ZHUH DWWDFKHG WR WKH EURRFKHV LQ WKH

'XWFKJUDYHV¿WWKLVPRGHORUQRW)URPWKHPLGGOH

RIWKHVL[WKFHQWXU\RQZDUGVWKHWZREURRFKHVDWWKH

FKHVWDUHVORZO\UHSODFHGE\RQHODUJHUEURRFKDQG

DW WKH HQG RI WKH VL[WK FHQWXU\ WKH WZR ORZHU ERZ

EURRFKHVKDYHGLVDSSHDUHGDVZHOO

)URPSLFWRULDO

VRXUFHV LW EHFRPHV HYLGHQW WKDW ZRPHQ ZRUH D

JRZQRUORQJWXQLFZLWKVOHHYHV7KLVJRZQFRXOG

EH DQNOHOHQJWK RU VRPHZKDW VKRUWHU UHDFKLQJ WR

WKH FDOYHV 7KH JRZQ ZDV VHFXUHG DW WKH ZDLVW E\

DEHOWIURPZKLFKZRPHQFRXOGKDQJRQHRUPRUH

XWHQVLOV $UFKDHRORJLFDO ¿QGV VKRZ XV WKDW XQGHU

WKH JRZQ RQH XVXDOO\ ZRUH DQ XQGHUJDUPHQW PDGH

RXWRIOLQHQ

6RFNVRUKRVHWKDWZHUHKHOGLQSODFH

E\ JDUWHUV RIWHQ FRYHUHG WKH OHJV RI WKH ZRPHQ LQ

)UDQFHDQG*HUPDQ\,QWKHVHFRXQWULHVPDQ\JDUWHU

¿WWLQJVIURPWKHVL[WKDQGVHYHQWKFHQWXU\KDYHEHHQ

IRXQG

2YHUWKHJRZQZRPHQFRXOGZHDUDVOHHYHG

FORDN RU RXWHU JRZQ RU D VOHHYHOHVV PDQWOH DV LV

VKRZQ RQ PRVDLFV DQG LOOXPLQDWHG PDQXVFULSWV

7KLVRXWHUJDUPHQWLVJHQHUDOO\DVVXPHGWREHRSHQ

DWWKHIURQWDQGIDVWHQHGDWWKHFKHVWRUKLSZLWKRQH

RUPRUHEURRFKHV

7KHODWHVWUHFRQVWUXFWLRQRIWKHEXULDOWH[WLOHVRITXHHQ

$UQHJXQGH¶V JUDYH SDLQWV D YLYLG SLFWXUH RI KRZ

KLJKUDQNLQJZRPHQIURPWKLVUHJLRQFRXOGKDYH

EHHQGUHVVHGDWWKHHQGRIWKHVL[WKFHQWXU\&ORDNV

6WUDXǃDQG6LHJPXQGKDYHVXP- PDUL]HGWKHFKURQRORJ\RIWKHFRQ¿JXUDWLRQRIEURRFKHVLQ

)UDQNLVKEXULDOV6LHJPXQGVWDWHVWKDWWKHSDUHGEURRFKHVDW

the shoulders, associated with the peplos gown, are char- DFWHULVWLFIRUWKHSHULRG,QWKHPLGGOHRIWKH¿IWK

FHQWXU\WKH9LHU¿EHOWUDFKWRFFXUVIRUWKH¿UVWWLPHEXWLVVWLOO

VFDUFH)URPWKHHQGRIWKH¿IWKFHQWXU\WRWKHPLGGOHRIWKH

sixth century the 9LHU¿EHOWUDFKt is dominant with two small brooches at the chest and two large bow brooches at the waist. From 555-585 the two brooches at the chest are slowly reduced to one brooch. In this same period the two bow brooches that were previously positioned at the waist are now SUHVHQWORZHURQWKHERG\RQWKHXSSHUOHJ$OVRSUHVHQWLQ

this is a dress type with only two small brooches at the chest.

From the end of the sixth century the pair of bow brooches at WKHKLSGLVDSSHDUDQGQRZZHRQO\VHHRQHODUJH¿OLJUHHGLVF

brooch at the chest.

427. Undergarments are not visible on the images from this period but are mentioned in several contemporary literary sources and have frequently been found in the archaeological record.

428. Owen-Crocker 2004, 162.

Fig. 8.14 Reconstruction of the 9LHU¿EHOWUDFKW.

'UDZLQJ&YDQ+HHV