THE EFFECT OF VINTAGE TREND ON SECOND HAND SHOPPING
by Laura Boscolo Todaro January 15, 2018
Master Thesis MSc Marketing Management
University of Groningen Faculty of Economics and Business
Department of Marketing P.O. Box 800, 9700 AV Groningen
Supervisors:
First Supervisor: Marijke C. Leliveld Second Supervisor: Yannick Joye
Author:
Table of contents
Introduction………3
Literature review………4
The role of Vintage trend……….4
The role of Economic motivations………..6
The role of Fashion motivations………..7
The role of Originality motivations………. 8
The role of Environmental motivations………9
Conceptual model………11
Methodology………12
Results……….13
Discussion………17
Limitations and Future research………18
References………21
Abstract
Although Vintage has been a growing trend recently, little is known about its influence on consumers shopping behaviour. The purpose of this study is to investigate whether exposure to vintage trend might enhance consumers purchase of second hand goods, testing first which are the possible drivers of second hand shopping behaviour. Results of this study indicate that consumers which behaviour is driven by economic motivations buy used pieces, while fashion, originality and environmental motivations do not affect second hand purchases. Furthermore, vintage trend has not been found to influence consumers’ decisions to acquire used pieces.
Introduction
Vintage has been a growing trend recently, since wearing vintage clothes, driving vintage cars, listening to vintage music or watching vintage movies have become very popular (Ferraro, Sands and Brace-Govan 2016). Contemporary fashion magazines are showing models wearing vintage clothes designed by fashion houses. Moreover, many cities have vintage-themed events such as Mad Men parties, Roaring 20s parties or 80s nights at clubs (Fischer and Nancy 2015).
Additionally, in 2014, with the song “Thrift Shop” the rap duo Macklemore and Ryan Lewis celebrated thrift store culture, showing in the music video a cool thrift store and second hand clothes (Fischer and Nancy 2015). As consumers’ exposure to vintage trend is increasing, the interest in second hand goods might increase as well. Rebranding used clothing as vintage may make them more appealing than standard clothes, and consumers may consider used pieces as a valid alternative to mainstream goods (Fischer and Nancy 2015).
matter, and the number of reasons why consumers buy second hand pieces might has increased (Yang et al. 2015). In addition to economic motivation, fashion, originality and environmental motivations seem to determine second hand consumption. To understand why these motivations may affect second hand consumption is important to consider a person’s needs and values (Guiot and Roux 2010). Westbrook and Black (1985) stated that when consumers purchase they do not look only at the characteristics of the product itself, but they also aim to satisfy their needs that are not intrinsically linked to the product. For instance, when buying second hand pieces consumers look at all the aspects that characterize second hand goods, taking into account the facts that they might be cheaper, they are used and not from the latest trend, they might be original and sustainable (Belk and Wallendorf 1988; Gregson and Crewe 1997; Sherry 1990).
Thus, in my study I want to test whether economic, fashion, originality or environmental
motivations might be drivers of second hand goods consumption and to what extent exposure to vintage trend may enhance consumers’ purchase of used pieces.
Literature review
The role of Vintage trend
Vintage market has always been considered as a niche market and an alternative way of
consumption (Cervellon and Shammas 2013). It was generally popular only among people with an interest in special and original items and consumers that usually embrace environmental friendly behaviours (Ferraro, Sands and Brace-Govan 2016). As defined by Gilmore and Pine (2007) these kind of consumers are no longer satisfied with goods and services in and of themselves but are interested in cultivating compelling experiences and particular symbolic associations through their consumption practices.
Govan 2016). Its exposure has increased, due to the fact that television and internet have started to show more and more images and music of the past, films from 1930s-1950s became available and fashion brands started launching collections inspired by vintage pieces (Reynolds 2011). With the increasingly connected society of this century, ideas and inspiration are shared so freely and, as a consequence, people are exposed to vintage trend every day. Since the end of the 2000s, with popular movies and television series such as Mad Men set in the “good old times”, the 1960s, and fashion blogs such as Sea of Shoes, street style has been inspired by vintage designs. Fashion houses, such as Louis Vuitton for its 2010-2011 winter collection, have started reproducing and reinterpreting vintage clothing or, such as Yves Saint Laurent in 2009, reusing vintage fabrics (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012). Moreover, an important influencer for the popularity of vintage trend is celebrity endorsement. Media attention on celebrity fashion has revealed that people who are considered as role models such as Kate Moss or Michelle Obama regularly wear vintage clothing (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012).
As a result, vintage trend gained a lot of power and it may influence consumers and affect their decisions (McColl et al. 2012). This is in line with Fishbein and Ajzen (1975) who says that “consumers’ behaviour is determined not only by their belief-based attitude but also the subjective norm they perceive from their significant references”. Additionally, consumers are not only
influenced by peers, but also by mass media with social norms that facilitate their consumer socialization process (Aggarwal 2004).
Thus, I want to to investigate whether exposure to vintage trend might enhance consumers purchase of second hand goods, testing first which are the possible drivers of second hand shopping
The role of Economic Motivations
In the past second hand goods were associated with poverty and charity and only people that could not afford new clothes used to purchase them (Fischer and Nancy 2015). Nowadays the link
between used pieces and poverty still exists in consumers’ minds (Fischer and Nancy 2015). This is shown by the fact that many consumers see second-hand shopping as a possibility to acquire
products that are cheaper than new ones (Roux and Guiot 2010). For instance price sensitivity and price consciousness have been found to be positively related to second-hand shopping behaviour (Williams and Paddock 2003; Clausen et al. 2010; Joung and Park-Poaps 2013; Gullstrand Edbring et al. 2016). Hence, since the purchase of used products is related to monetary concerns, consumers, whose shopping behaviour is driven by economic motivations should be willing to purchase second hand goods.
H1. When consumers are not exposed to vintage trend, the more economic motivated they are, the higher the likelihood to purchase second hand pieces.
provoke in economic motivated consumers a negative shopping behaviour toward second hand goods.
H2: When consumers are exposed to vintage trend, the more economic motivated they are, the less they will buy second hand goods.
The role of Fashion Motivations
Individuals that are driven by fashion motivations consider fashion clothing extremely important for themselves and their existence (O’Cass 2000). As past literature stated, fashion motivations are stronger in younger females, since they consider their appearance something particularly relevant (O’Cass 2004; O’Cass and Julian 2001). To enhance their appearance they need to acquire products that are in phase with fashion trend, since fashion motivation is directly linked to being up to date and informed on trends (O’Cass 2000). Yet, when consumers are not exposed to vintage trend, second hand pieces might be considered cheap, sustainable, but not fashionable, and, as a result, fashion motivated consumers shouldn’t be interested in purchasing them (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012). This results in the following hypothesis:
H3: When not exposed to vintage trend, the higher the fashion motivations in consumers, the more they consider second hand goods as out of date/not from the latest trend, and the less likely they will purchase used pieces.
advantage of the vintage trend and sell second hand pieces in their marketplaces (Bowser et al. 2015). These retailers benefitted from the fact that luxury brands such as Ralph Lauren started hunting for vintage pieces and selling them in their flagship stores, side by side with their new collections (Iverson 2010). Thus fashion motivated consumers may buy second hand pieces and show a positive attitude toward them, since the vintage trend is suggesting to buy vintage clothes through luxury brands vintage campaigns and vintage retailers expansion.
H4: When exposed to vintage trend fashion motivated selves are willing to purchase second hand goods.
The role of Originality Motivations
people that buy used pieces to consumers that purchase mainstream fashion (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012). Furthermore, individuals with strong originality motivations might be much more likely to make non-traditional consumer choices, such as purchasing clothing in second-hand channels as opposed to conventional channels as a mean of demonstrating their individuality (Roux and Guiot 2010).
H5: When not exposed to vintage trend, the more consumers are pushed by originality motivations, the more they will purchase second hand goods.
But are consumers with low originality motivation never going to purchase second hand goods? Perhaps they will when exposed to Vintage trend, since vintage invokes a sense of nostalgia that entails a desire for the authenticity and uniqueness that feature goods from the past (Gregson et al. 2001). Turner (1987) defines nostalgia as “a mood of particular importance in contemporary
cultures in association with the loss of rural simplicity, traditional stability and cultural integration”. In order to escape from the fast changing society that distinguishes this decade, individuals invoke the past (Turner 1987). As a result, consumers with low originality motivation may feel the
nostalgia of the high quality clothes from the past when exposed to vintage trend, and they might desire to seek out, in second-hand outlets, old objects that are authentic of a historical period, original and unique.
H6: When exposed to vintage trend non originality motivated selves are more willing to purchase second hand goods.
The role of Environmental Motivations
quality. Some people are particularly sensitive to the environment, and they usually choose behaviours that contribute to a clean planet. These individuals’ shopping behaviour is driven by environmental motivations, since they strongly value the nature and they perceive themselves as people that act pro-environmentally (Steg et al. 2014). Consumers with this environmental friendly values make a difference in the modern society by adopting sustainable behaviours in their
everyday life. The re-use and recycling of clothes has started to be considered by consumers as one of these eco friendly behaviours that has a positive impact on the environment (Bianchi and
Birtwistle 2010). Darley and Lim (1999) stated that recycling enhances the second hand goods purchase rate and, for instance, highly environmental motivated consumers consider the choice of second-hand clothing as a way to express themselves (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012). All in all, this results in the following hypothesis:
H7. When not exposed to vintage trend, the more environment motivated is the consumer, the higher the likelihood to purchase second hand pieces.
The extent to which consumers are environmental motivated does not only depend on individual factors (environmental friendly values), but also on situational factors that activate or deactivate different types of values (Steg et al. 2014). Consequently, with the right situational cues, it should be possible to convince people that have a low environmental motivation to adopt a sustainable shopping behaviour (Steg et al. 2014). Goal framing theory (Lindenberg and Steg 2007) suggests that people may be motivated to engage in pro environmental behaviour for hedonic reasons (e.g., because it is enjoyable). For instance, second hand shopping may be perceived as more fun, or more attractive in the right situational setting. Vintage trend has revealed situational factors
entertaining aspects of the shopping activity and the serendipity ensuing from the unexpected encounter with certain objects”
As a result, consumers that have a low environmental motivation may adopt a sustainable behaviour because driven by hedonic reasons such as the recreational experience that characterize vintage shopping.
H8: When exposed to vintage trend non environmental motivated selves are more willing to purchase second hand goods.
Conceptual Model
H1. When consumers are not exposed to vintage trend, the more economic motivated they are, the higher the likelihood to purchase second hand pieces.
H3: When not exposed to vintage trend, the higher the fashion motivations in consumers, the more they consider second hand goods as out of date/not from the latest trend, and the less likely they will purchase used pieces.
H4: When exposed to vintage trend fashion motivated selves are willing to purchase second hand goods.
H5: When not exposed to vintage trend, the more consumers are pushed by originality motivations, the more they will purchase second hand goods.
H6: When exposed to vintage trend non originality motivated selves are more willing to purchase second hand goods.
H7: When not exposed to vintage trend, the more environment motivated is the consumer, the higher the likelihood to purchase second hand pieces.
H8: When exposed to vintage trend non environmental motivated selves are more willing to purchase second hand goods.
Methodology
In order to test my hypothesis, I conducted a survey in which I measured the level of economic, fashion, originality, environmental motivations in consumers, and I manipulated the exposure to vintage trend.
hand shopping purchase). The results of the tests showed that there was internal consistency among the set of items forming the Fashion Motivation variable (α = .937), Originality Motivation variable (α = .613), Environmental Motivation variable (α = .856) and the dependent variable (α = .758), hence the items have been summed into the named variables. The set of items forming the
Economic Motivation variable have been found to be not reliable (α = .325) and therefore it was not possible to sum them into one Economic Motivation variable. Consequently, only the variable Price sensitivity has been used in the analysis. I discuss this issue further in the Limitation and Further research section.
To manipulate the exposure to vintage trend I created two articles, written as if the Vogue editor Anna Wintour wrote them and I included them in the survey (see Appendix). People were randomly assigned to one of two treatments. In the vintage trend condition, the article emphasizes the
existence of vintage trend nowadays and strengthen its popularity, whereas in the no vintage trend condition the article supposes the existence of a futuristic trend, that has the same characteristics as the vintage trend. Since Anna Wintour is a very influential woman in the fashion world and she determines what is or is not trendy at the moment, participants that know her should believe what the articles state and they should be affected by them. As control variables, I asked participants to indicate whether they found the news article realistic and whether they have ever read a Vogue article and know who Anna Wintour is. Finally, I submitted respondents to one manipulation check questions verifying to what extent they believe that there is a vintage trend.
A total of 100 people participated to my online survey. The sample did not present any anomalies, therefore 100 participants were considered (Mage= 33.2, SD= 13.9; 46.2 per cent female).
Results
believe that there is a vintage trend (F (2,95) = 3.791; p= .721). Results show that most of the people perceive that there is a vintage trend regardless the two conditions vintage trend (Mvintage
trend= 4.53, SD= 1.44) and no vintage trend (Mfuturistic= 4.44, SD= 1.32).
Furthermore, I measured mean and standard deviation of the control variables to verify whether the manipulation worked as intended. Most of the participants have never read a Vogue article (M= .58,
SD= .469) named 0 the case in which they read a Vogue article and 1 the situation in which they
never did it. Moreover, the majority of the sample did not know who Anna Wintour is (M= .70, SD= .461) named 0 the case in which they know Anna Wintour and 1 the situation in which they do not know her. In addition, in a scale from 1 to 7 most of the respondents found the article to be realistic (M= 4.13, SD= 1.361).
To test my hypothesis and determine whether the independent variables significantly affect the dependent variable (Hypothesis 1, 3, 5, 7), a stepwise Linear Regression Analysis was performed. In Step 1 the control variables gender, age, level of education and past second hand goods purchases were included to test whether they have an effect on the dependent variable. In Step 2 of the
regression analysis the main independent variables (Fashion Motivation, Originality Motivation, Environmental Motivation, Price Sensitivity) were included. The results suggest that the model is significant (Fstep 1 (4,95) = 5.791; p= .000); (Fstep 2 (8,91) = 4.400; p= .000), and the overall model
fit is R²step1= .196; R²step2= .216. Having a closer look at the Coefficients table below is possible to see that the age of the participants significantly and positively affects the purchase of second hand goods (b= .025; p= .035) . Hence the older the participants the more likely they will buy used pieces. The relation between past second hand good purchases and future similar purchases is also positive and significant (b= .917; p= .002). Gender (b=-.196; p= .496) and education level (b= .050;
p= .733) are not predictors of second hand goods purchases.
1, showing a positive relation between price sensitivity and second hand goods purchase. As a result, the hypothesis 1 “the more economic motivated the consumer is, the higher the likelihood to purchase second hand pieces” is accepted, while hypothesis 3, 5 and 7 are not accepted (p > .05).
Coefficient table Stepwise Linear Regression 1
After this first analysis, I tested whether the exposure to vintage trend would moderate the strength of the relationship between the dependent and the independent variables (hypothesis 2, 4, 6 and 8). A two-steps Linear Regression Analysis was required to conduct the moderation effect. First of all the independent variables Fashion Motivation, Originality Motivation, Environmental Motivation, Price Sensitivity were multiplied with the moderator in order to create the interaction terms (X*Moderator) and they were used as independent variables in the second step of the stepwise Linear Regression Analysis. Before to be multiplied with the moderator, the continuous independent variables were mean centred (with a mean of exactly zero) to avoid multicollinearity.
The overall model has a R² of .188, indicating that the model explains almost 19% of the variability of the response data around its mean. The regression was found to be significant (F(9,90) = 2.318;
p=.021). As showed in the table below, a positive effect between the interaction term
Model B Std. Error Beta t Sig.
AGE 0,018 0,011 0,158 1,627 0,107
GENDER -0,072 0,277 -0,025 -0,259 0,796
EDUCATIONAL LEVEL 0,094 0,147 0,062 0,643 0,522
PAST SECOND HAND GOODS PURCHASES
1,096 0,288 0,367 3,811 0,000
AGE 0,025 0,012 0,227 2,135 0,035
GENDER -0,196 0,286 -0,067 -0,683 0,496
EDUCATIONAL LEVEL 0,050 0,147 0,033 0,342 0,733
Economic_Interaction (Price sensitivity*Exposure to vintage trend) and the purchase of second hand goods was found (b = .503; p= .046). This finding is not in line with hypothesis 2 which states that when consumers are exposed to vintage trend, the more economic motivated they are, the less they will buy second hand goods. However, since the p-value is slightly significant, this result must be interpreted with caution. Taking into account the fact that the moderation effect was not found for hypothesis 4, 6 and 8 (see table below), and considering that, as already stated, the manipulation treatments did not work, it can be derived that exposure to vintage trend does not have a moderation effect in the model.
Coefficient table Stepwise Linear Regression 2
Discussion
In this paper I proposed that second hand shopping might be driven by economic, fashion,
originality or environmental motivations, and exposure to vintage trend may enhance consumers’ purchase of used pieces. The strength of the four drivers depends on the attributes people associate to second hand goods. Likewise, the effect of vintage trend relies on what stands in consumers’ minds for vintage trend (Steg et al. 2014).
In line with previous studies that found economic motives to be the main driver of second hand consumption (Williams and Paddock 2003; Clausen et al. 2010; Joung and Park-Poaps 2013; Gullstrand Edbring et al. 2016), also my results show that used pieces are seen as a chance to save money and they are still attributed to poverty and charity, since, among the four drivers, economic motivation has been found to be the only predictor of second hand shopping.
Furthermore, results suggest that vintage trend does not moderate the relationships between the four motivations and the purchase of second hand goods. This may be due to the fact that the attributes allocated to second hand goods are different from the characteristics associated with vintage goods (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012). This is a limitation of my study, since I did not considered that, although vintage pieces are usually second hand, the word vintage has been defined as “a rare and authentic piece that represents the style of a particular couturier or era produced in the period between the 1920s and the 1980s ”, while second hand goods are garment pieces already used that might have been produced anytime (Gerval 2008).
Given these definitions, consumers might not have seen a connection between second hand and vintage, therefore exposure to vintage trend did not change the existing idea consumers have of second hand goods (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012).
are simply disposable objects (Gerval 2008). Taking into account this perspective, used pieces are not original, hence originality seekers will not purchase them to satisfy their need for uniqueness. The same arguments hold for fashion motivated consumers, which do not recall second hand clothes as fashionable pieces that belong to a particular style that existed in the past (Gerval 2008). Therefore they are not willing to purchase used pieces since they do not consider them to be trendy and stylish as vintage pieces are (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012).
Regarding the environmental driver, in discordance with the literature results suggest that sustainable selves are not willing to buy second hand goods. It seems that consumers do not see purchasing second hand goods as an eco-friendly behaviour but they rather consider recycling products which are supposed to have durability as sustainable actions (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012). This finding is in line with Niinimaki (2010), who points out that environmental aspects (for clothing) could only provide additional consumer value, but is not a decisive factor per se for people to buy second hand products.
Furthermore, sustainable consumers may react negatively to used clothes and feel disgusted by the fact that they have been already worn by others. Literature has identified perceived contamination and concerns about transfer of disease that results from another consumer having worn an item before (Kubacki 2014). As a consequence eco friendly people may prefer to buy eco labels instead of second hand goods (Kubacki 2014).
Limitations and Future Research
The aim of this study was to test whether economic, fashion, originality or environmental motivations might be drivers of second hand goods consumption and to what extent exposure to vintage trend may enhance consumers’ purchase of used pieces. The results demonstrate that second hand shopping is only driven by economic motives, and vintage trend does not influence the
This research acknowledges several limitations. First, as stated in the discussion chapter, in this study I did not consider the different perception consumers have of used pieces and vintage pieces (Cervellon, Carey and Harms 2012), probable reason why exposure to vintage trend did not have an effect on second hand goods consumption. For future research, it must be considered that vintage purchases may be determined by different drivers to those of second hand purchases and therefore the profile of the consumer that purchases vintage goods might be very different from the one that buys second-hand goods (Guiot and Roux 2010).
Moreover, in my research I did not take into account the disgust feeling associated with wearing used clothes. Further research should consider that previously owned clothes trigger concerns about contamination and this might lead eco friendly consumers to buy eco labels rather than second hands goods (Kubacki 2014).
Another limitation is the size of the sample, since 100 people are not representative of a target population and, more importantly, it results in low statistical power that has a reduced chance of detecting a true effect, lowering the likelihood of a statistically significant results.
I addition, some measurements were not ideal. For example, the set of items forming the Economic Motivation variable have been found to be not reliable and therefore it was not possible to sum them into the Economic Motivation variable. This is due to the fact that the two asked questions regarding the economic driver measure different things. The question “Do you consider money to be important in your life?” measures price sensitivity, while the question “How much money do you earn per month?” assesses the personal income of every participant and is not necessarily relate to price sensitivity (Wakefield K. L., Inman J.J 2003).
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