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Master thesis

Does your culture gene affect your fashion soul?

A research into how cultural factors influent the success of fashion bloggers from

the Netherlands, the United Sates and Taiwan.

Author: Tammy (Ya-ting) Lee Student Number: 10602690

MSc. in Business Administration- Marketing Track Faculty of Economics and Business

University of Amsterdam

Supervisor: Dr. Lee, Hsin-Hsuan (Meg) Second reader:

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Abstract

There are various research studies that define the factors of successful fashion blogs. This study

is founded on the theory of cultural capital based on cultural differences, and analyzes the visual and

written content of blogs from Taiwan, the United States, and the Netherlands. The cultural factors

individualism, collectivism, narcissism, and materialism are proven to have decisive influences on the

presentation of fashion blogs when they try to build a mass audience. This paper offers a first

hand-collected dataset, involving the different ways bloggers obtain cultural capital by displaying taste

judgment. The analysis extensively codes the presentation of blogs, including photos, feedbacks,

content length, writing styles, and the attainment of economic and social capital. According to the

results, collectivism encourages the bloggers to share more photos, expansive writing, and personal

information, while individualism triggers the opposite effect. Narcissism and materialism, on the other

hand, affect the frequency of incidences of bloggers self-modeling, boasting, and use of luxury items.

Therefore, it is practical for both consumer fashion bloggers and international marketers to take

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Preface / Acknowledgements

Dear reader, before you start reading my thesis to find out what the relationship between the

culture gene and fashion soul is, there are some things I would like to share with you first. In this

research study, you will find a survey of how the cultural factors collectivism, individualism,

narcissism, and materialism prove that successful fashion bloggers are driven by their cultural

background when they blog.

Twelve months ago, I started this research based on my work experience with bloggers, the

interest in cultural differences, and my passion for fashion. The massive and confidential data retrieved

have turned this study into a long process. This paper fully records this lengthy procedure and I am

very happy with what has been accomplished. This thesis is a fully original and independent work.

However, it would not have been successful without the faith of others. First of all, I want to thank my

partner, Hein Harlaar, for all his support and inspiration. He not only believed in me finishing this

thesis, but also made many suggestions to improve the structure. I also want to thank my parents, who

are far away in Taiwan, and my good friends Hsunyi Huang, Kanykei Dordoeva, Yvette Bongers,

Bettina Uri, and Lanyue Liu for all the feedback they provided. Most importantly, I want to thank my

supervisor Meg, for many long meetings, all the useful suggestions, clear guidelines, and her patience.

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the best supervisor I could have wished for. Last, I would like to thank you, the reader. It has been a

great journey and thus, I wish you an enjoyable reading time.

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Table of Contents

Abstract ... 2  

Preface / Acknowledgements ... 3  

1.   Introduction ... 7  

2.   Literature review ... 13  

2.1.   Consumer fashion blogs ... 13  

2.2.   Cultural capital ... 17  

2.2.1. Individualist and Collectivist cultures ... 21  

2.2.2. Narcissism ... 23   2.2.3. Materialism ... 26   2.3 Conclusion ... 29   3.   Methodology ... 30   3.1.   Research Design ... 30   3.1.1. Country selection ... 30   3.1.2. Netnography ... 31   3.1.3. Time span ... 31   3.2.   Field research ... 32   3.2.1. Blog Sampling ... 32   3.2.2. Blog Analysis ... 37   3.2.3. Coding Method ... 39   4.   Results ... 46   4.1.   Overview ... 46   4.2.   Key Results ... 51   4.3.   Picture Style ... 53  

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4.3.2. The content of pictures ... 55  

4.4.   Bloggers’ writing style ... 61  

4.4.1. Topics ... 61   4.4.2. Writing Content ... 63   4.4.3. Sponsorship ... 68   4.4.4. Readers’ comments ... 72   5.   Discussion ... 76   5.1.   Cultural factors ... 76  

5.1.1. Individualism and Collectivism ... 77  

5.1.2. Narcissism ... 78  

5.1.3. Materialism ... 80  

5.2.   Strengths and limitations of this research ... 81  

5.3.   Future research ... 83  

6.   Conclusion ... 88  

7.   References ... 90  

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1.

Introduction

The formation of blogs, which allows people to post pictures, content, and videos easily, and the

availability of blog sites, such as Blogspot.com, Wordpress and Pixnet, have given individuals a

platform to share their experiences, opinions, and creativity with a mass online audience. Blogging is

important in today’s social media arena, as more and more individuals now look to blog sites for

sources of information, as opposed to traditional media. In 2003, it was reported that there were less

than one million identified blogs worldwide, but the number speedily increased to 173 million in 2011,

with more than one million new posts produced per day across various platforms (Blogpulse, 2011;

Statista, 2012). By the end of 2014, this number reached over 200 million new posts per day.

Fashion, travel, food, and technology are just some of the popular topics covered by blogs. This

research study focuses on fashion blogs for two reasons. First, the fashion industry has achieved far

beyond its immediate borders, both in terms of sales and influence on ordinary people, compared to

other industries (Mcquarrie et al. 2013). Second, the close relationship between fashion bloggers and

companies is another incentive for this study, as it could influence and contribute direct practical

outcomes for the companies involved. While fashion bloggers have the same goal in mind – to reach a

wide audience and give advice on current trends based on their taste judgments– the factors

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very subjective opinion, since it is a way to be identified as an individual within a group (Arsel &

Thompson, 2011), affiliate with society (Holt, 1998), and readjust one’s taste to that of others. Taste

varies according to personal background, such as country of origin and cultural differences. Thus, this

research emphasizes the influence of cultural factors, and examines how these factors change the ways

in which fashion bloggers present their blogs.

The effects of blogs in different cultures are typically relevant for international companies for their

marketing strategies. Blogs not only give an opportunity to companies to learn about their consumers’

needs and to communicate and share information with consumers more directly, but also enables the

brands to cooperate with blogs to affect customers’ buying decisions. According to a marketing study

by Word Press Virtuoso (2013), blogs hold a decisive sway over customers’ purchasing decisions and

behaviors. The data indicates that the information on blogs helps 40% of customers to decide or be

satisfied with what to buy, assists 17% to discover a new product or service, and inspires 13% of the

survey responders to make a purchase.

Previous studies have used different factors such as blog features and the personality of bloggers to

explain the effect of blogs (Matsumura, Yamamoto, & Tomozawa, 2008). Some studies examine the

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the style and extent of engagement. For instance, Tan & Nah (2013) have conducted research on the

frequency and consistency of blog posts, the scope and originality of contents, and the persuasion

styles of individual bloggers. However, no research so far has taken cultural factors into consideration

despite the fact that taste is closely connected to cultural aesthetics and judgment of taste is the

foundation of all blogs (Mcquarrie et al. 2013).

How to manage the power of fashion bloggers effectively by being aware of cultural differences, to

establish positive brand image, and persuade consumers to purchase products in various markets are

important marketing topics. While fashion blogging is an international phenomenon, there is a lack of

research comparing blogs across countries. Previous research focused mainly on American blogs or

solely on blogs from a specific region, such as Scandinavian blogs in Sweden, Finland (Sepp et al.,

2011), and Norway (Hauge, 2010), and blogs in Asia, such as Singapore and Hong Kong (Lee et al.,

2011). In order to exert their power of taste leadership, bloggers need to have a sense of the aesthetic

preferences of the community first (Thompson, 2011). Taste preferences, such as choosing clothes, can

be used to identify the community or (sub) cultures to which the bloggers belong (Mcquarrie et al.

2013). Hence, bloggers are likely to differ in their ways of exerting influence due to the variety of

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influence when comparing blogs across cultures, this study establishes a detailed comparison of

blogging behavior in different societies.

In this paper, a comparison of fashion blogs originating from different cultures is made to identify

the key differences between the blogs and to explain why these variations exist. Fashion blogs become

influential and achieve publicity by means of collecting, evaluating, and posting anything related to

clothes, styles, and trends. I probe into the success of fashion blogs by the achievement of cultural

capital, which is defined by Mcquarrie et al. (2013), with respect to the fashion industry, as “The

capacity to exercise taste in the sense of discrimination of aesthetic quality”. The more cultural capital

a blogger gains, the more likely they are to be successful and welcomed by the general public. In order

to divide the blogs by cultural influence, I examine both visual and written content to compare the

diversities of display.

Several cultural factors may be used to explain the differences in blogging behaviors when it

comes to gathering cultural capital. For instance, Sia et al. (2009) have found that people in

individualist cultures, such as the majority in Australia, tend to deal with both in-group (e.g. local

peers, family members, friends, etc.), and out-group (e.g. foreigners, foreign organizations, etc.)

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or goals of in-groups, form their behaviors according to in-group norms, and behave in a communal

way. On the other hand, people prefer to stand out more and act differently from others in individualist

cultures. Following the theories of Sia et al. (2009), Lim et al. (2006), and Mills & Clark (1982), this

paper addresses whether differences in the ways fashion bloggers achieve cultural capital can be

explained and supported by theories of cultural difference. Moreover, bloggers are seemingly naturally

narcissistic, as they use blogs as a platform for self-promoting, boasting (Jean & W. Keith, 2010), and

obtaining satisfaction through the feedback of their followers (Morf & Rhodewalt, 2001). The

over-claiming and control-oriented leadership character of narcissists (Jean & W. Keith, 2010) could imply

why these amateur individuals, who are considered non-professional in fashion and media industries,

are confident enough to boast and become aesthetic taste leaders by blogging. On the other hand,

materialism reveals the importance of the possession of goods, which define the characters of

individuals (Richins & Dawson, 1992). Therefore, it can be assumed that blogs that emphasize

shopping, expensive luxury brands, free gifts, or sponsorships apply materialism in order to gain

cultural capital.

Cultural circumstances certainly have an impact on how bloggers present themselves. However,

there are hardly any studies about the application of marketing strategies with respect to bloggers in

different cultures, even though these are essential to gaining a better understanding of the efficacy of

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What is the influence of cultural factors on the presentation of successful fashion blogs from

different cultures (such as the Netherlands, the United States, and Taiwan) and how do they

differ from each other when they try to gain cultural capital?

In this study, blogs from Taiwan, the United States (U.S.), and the Netherlands are employed as

case studies, due to the phenomenal blogging scene that has developed there. The key purpose of this

qualitative research is to gain insight into the effects of cultural factors on the content, style, and

influence of online fashion blogs. Besides answering the research question, this paper strives to explain

the observed differences in blogging behavior between the various cultures. In the end, companies

using blogging as a marketing strategy are offered an insight into how to adapt their approaches to

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2.

Literature review

This chapter begins with a discussion of the definitions of consumer fashion blogs. The second

section contains a discussion of cultural capital and how to determine the success of blogs. The

subsequent sections elaborate on the cultural factors: collectivism, individualism, narcissism, and

materialism. As a result, following the definitions of central concepts of cultural influence, these are

applied to the analysis of the diverse presentations of successful fashion blogs.

2.1. Consumer fashion blogs

As defined by Rettberg (2008), blogs are webpages normally managed by individuals, which

provide content and links to other sites and allow audiences to leave comments. McConnel & Huba

(2007) also assessed that there are no boundaries for or limits to blogs; individuals can post news,

information, pictures, graphics, and videos without having to edit or control the posts. As a result,

consumer blogs are often run by non-professional individuals, who do not necessarily have any

expertise in the industry, but who blog out of their personal interest. For example, consumer fashion

bloggers write about topics such as clothing, accessories, styles, and cosmetics without having any

relevant experience within the fashion industry. Despite this, fashion bloggers still gain mass attention

and influence by means of collecting, evaluating, and posting according to their aesthetic preferences,

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The importance of blogs in today’s society can be explained by the phenomenon of electronic

Word of Mouth (eWOM), which is especially prominent in the blogosphere. There are two different

kinds of eWOM: organic and amplified (WOMMA, 2011; Kulmala, Mesiranta & Tuominen, 2013).

The former occurs when an individual wants to share a positive or negative experience about a certain

product or company. The latter takes place when marketers use blogging as part of a campaign or

marketing strategy. However, it is important to note that even though amplified is not as varied and

pure as organic eWOM content, consumer fashion bloggers consider them to function similarly

(Kulmala, Mesiranta & Tuominen, 2013). Therefore, even though both sponsored posts of blogs and

the brand commercials are promoting the same item and content, audiences are more willing to trust

the recommendations of bloggers as sincere opinions.

Kulmala et al. (2013) also indicate that many different forms of fashion blog marketing could be

applied, such as organizing competitions with bloggers, supplying bloggers with products or gift

vouchers, or establishing a continuous relationship with a blogger through a cooperation agreement.

Therefore, it is important for brands and marketers to realize the limitation of manipulating the content

of blogs when they sponsor the posts. The sponsored content needs to fit with the bloggers’ own style

and match with their sense of dress. Otherwise, bloggers might receive negative feedback from their

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Following Mcquarrie et al. (2013), the importance and subsequent effect of eWOM have been

coined as the “megaphone effect”. This indicates that ordinary people can have access to and maintain

a substantial influence over a mass audience through the Internet. This further highlights that, in

certain industries, blogs run by unprofessional people have garnered enormous attention and become a

competitive force for traditional media, as they have the influence is powered outstanding aesthetic

discrimination. The megaphone effect is one form of eWOM, but which involves more frequent,

ongoing communication between ordinary people and a mass audience. Bloggers are also seen as

opinion leaders or marketmavens (Kozinets et al. 2010). Mcquarrie et. al (2013) argue that the

boundaries between media professionals and amateurs have become blurred. Thus, there is no need for

institutional certification or enablement to reach potential consumers.

Furthermore, blogs are actually threatening the authority of traditional media, like newspapers and

television (TV) commercials. The relevance of advertising in traditional media has been decreasing

because of the increasing influence of blogs. This forces companies in the fashion industry and

traditional media to adapt to this new method of online marketing. The megaphone effect of bloggers

in particular has fundamentally changed the marketing and media strategies of the fashion industry.

This eWOM effect demonstrates how the influence of bloggers can be used in the online marketing

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positive with the sponsored brand and more likely to purchase the products. However, in order for

companies to adapt to this new method of online marketing, it is important for them to be aware of the

factors that contribute to a successful blog.

The success of fashion blogs lies in the ability of bloggers to accumulate cultural capital

(Mcquarrie et al., 2013). In other words, most of the bloggers who are not trained or have not worked

as professionals in the creative industry, achieved a certain level of experience to allow them to

become society’s fashion guides or opinion leaders. By posting, practicing styling, and interacting with

readers, bloggers gain more experiences and ideas of fashion tastes. This is known as cultural capital.

The bloggers need to have the capability of styling taste, captivating writing skills, or outstanding

photos to attract audiences to establish their fashion authority. If they are not able to obtain cultural

capital, they would not be able to establish themselves as experts in the field of fashion.

A plethora of literature discusses the meaning and effect of cultural capital. Rettberg (2008)

defined the meaning of blogs, while eWOM (Kulmala, Mesiranta and Tuominen, 2013) and the

megaphone effect (Mcquarrie et al., 2013) illustrate the power of blogs. Both theories shed light on the

importance of consumer fashion blogs, which are run by non-professional individuals. The capabilities

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limitations on outer forces, such as marketers, to manipulate the presentations of blogs. This study

further examines how cultural factors impact bloggers’ abilities to gain positive attention from a mass

audience, and how bloggers accumulate cultural capital according to the country they are living in.

2.2. Cultural capital

Drawing on the work of Bourdieu (1992), cultural capital can be defined as forms of knowledge

(values, traditions, beliefs) that have value in society in relation to status and power. Fashion bloggers

can thus be theorized as “individuals who start with some capacity for taste and proceed to accumulate

cultural capital from its repeated exercise and display” (Mcquarrie, Miller, & Phillips, 2013, P.139).

Therefore, fashion bloggers perform as cultural capitalists, accumulating more and more cultural

capital by engaging with and exercising dominant aesthetic tastes. As long as bloggers’ displays of

taste have reached a certain audience size, the cultural capital of bloggers can be converted into

economic and social capital, as bloggers begin to be part of the established fashion system (Mcquarrie

et al. 2013). Economic capital involves concrete material rewards, for instance, money or free gifts. On

the other hand, social capital is an abstract bonus, such as social connections, exclusive event

invitations as a Very Important Person (VIP) guest for fashion shows, and public prestige (publicity

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Furthermore, fashion bloggers accumulate cultural capital in various ways. For instance, one of

the main reasons why fashion bloggers are so successful is because of their unique and outstanding

fashion tastes, and their creativity in crafting their own styles and looks. Unlike Bourdieu’s definition

of “habitus”, the choices made by fashion bloggers are not influenced by their professional

background, but through adapting to trends. Moreover, studies by Holt (1998), Berger & Ward (2010),

Bernthal, Crockett, & Rose (2005), Henry (2005), and Üstüner & Holt (2010) indicate the problem of

Bourdieu’s underlying assumption of habitus: “Under its original conception as a form of habitus, no

ordinary consumer could possess or even acquire cultural capital, inasmuch as ‘ordinary,’ consistent

with Turner (2010), means not endowed with preexisting social position” (Mcquarrie, Miller, and

Phillips 2013, P.138). As such, fashion bloggers today do not need to have a relevant educational or

professional background. Their success lies in their ability to notice, learn, adapt to, and even create

new trends.

By informing audiences about current trends, fashion blogs become a point of reference for

consumers before purchasing items. Nowadays, in order to gain more information on specific products

they are interested in, consumers look for reviews from other consumers who have previous purchase

experiences (Hennig-Thurau & Walsh, 2003). Online channels, especially blogs, which provide

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ways bloggers can accumulate cultural capital, as they are regarded as an important point of reference

for consumers.

Moreover, in order to differ from other competitors and to influence a large audience, bloggers

have to display taste leadership. Cultural capital in the fashion field “can now refer to the capacity to

exercise taste in the sense of discrimination of aesthetic quality” (Mcquarrie, Miller, & Phillips 2013,

P.139). Customers want to be different from the style controlled and delivered by fashion institutions.

However, at the same time, they do not really know how to establish their own style. As stated by Arsel

& Thompson (2011), consumers learn to calibrate their tastes to a field, community, or group with

which they identify—to join with others who share the same taste regime (Arsel & Bean 2013). The

internet and online social media have made the communication between individuals and others much

faster and easier. This enables the followers of blogs to obtain diverse information quickly and find

groups of styles they belong to. Through commenting, they feel part of the fashion community of their

choice.

Additionally, bloggers bridge the gap between fashion and daily dress, and make their audiences

believe that they can be as stylish as they are by following their aesthetic discrimination. Continued

success in this endeavor requires diminishing the boundaries that separate a blogger from their

followers. Fashion blogging thus reveals how cultural capital can operate to remove rather than

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cultural capital according to Lamont (1992), in which he argues that taste is exercised to exclude

others, which allows a certain elite to distinguish themselves from ordinary people. In summary, the

success of a fashion blog can be defined by the ability of the blogger to accumulate cultural capital

from exhibiting taste leadership, informing audiences about current trends, and encouraging

interpersonal exchange.

While a successful blog can be measured by its cultural capital, the ways of accumulating cultural

capital differ across cultures. This is because taste differs from country to country and thus, the

bloggers have to exhibit different methods to appeal to their respective audiences. Taste as a construct

is culturally bounded because it is a way of individuals to seek connection and identification within a

group (Holt, 1998). People follow the demotic trend and imitate the prevalent taste to fit in to the

community they belong to (Thompson, 2011). Thus, the methods and presentation of blogs for

attracting followers from different cultural backgrounds would vary according to the country they are

in.

The theories of cultural capital from Bourdieu (1992) and Mcquarrie et al. (2013) provide the

framework to define what is the success of fashion blogs and how is it achieved. Fashion bloggers

collect cultural capital by constantly exercising the dominant tastes of the cultures they are in. They

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countries (Holt, 1998; Thompson, 2011), bloggers have to exercise taste in a particular way in order to

attract their target audience. If the aforementioned concept is taken into consideration, it is logical that

consumer fashion blogs are written from a cultural perspective.

Now that the key drivers behind successful fashion blogs have been identified, it is important to

understand how these drivers differ between countries. Specifically, it must be analyzed how cultural

factors affect the presentation of blogs. As this research paper compares bloggers from the U.S., the

Netherlands, and Taiwan, the next section discusses theories on individualist and collectivist cultures,

and how this might affect the choices made by bloggers.

2.2.1. Individualist and Collectivist cultures

People from collectivist cultures value the opinions of others more than individualists, and respond

more positively to their peers who also behave similarly (Cialdini et al. 1999). On the other hand,

people from individualist cultures appreciate uniqueness more and tend to dissociate themselves from

groups. They act based on their personal knowledge and attitudes, and not according to in-group norms

(Triandis & Harry, 2001). Conversely, collectivists are highly interested in interacting with in-group

members (Gudykunst et al., 1992). Bloggers from collectivist cultures therefore encourage

interpersonal exchange between followers to achieve cultural capital. They are more likely to share

details of their personal lives, constantly respond to the questions of followers, give explicit and long

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People in individualist cultures, however, emphasize directness and efficiency (Triandis & Harry,

2001). They treat both group and out-group members more equally and, therefore, the power of

in-group norms is less influential compared to collectivist bloggers (Triandis & Suh, 2002). Individualists

prioritize their own needs and goals over the aims of their in-group (Triandis & Harry, 2001).

Therefore, bloggers from individualist cultures are less likely to encourage interpersonal exchange to

achieve cultural capital. Instead, they exhibit unique taste leadership for their personal gains, as

opposed to advising the audience explicitly on current (culturally defined) trends. Accordingly, in

terms of cultivating cultural capital, bloggers from individualist societies focus on their own styles,

while bloggers from collectivist countries focus more on in-group opinions, thus sharing more content

to create intimacy and trust.

Moreover, the consistency and stability of attitudes are important for individualists (Triandis &

Suh, 2002), while collectivists tend to care more about independence and sociability (Doney et al.,

1998). This is why bloggers from individualist cultures may share content, which is more consistent in

terms of style. They are less likely to change their style dramatically in order to keep a sense of

stability, which is key to accumulating cultural capital in individualist cultures. On the other hand,

bloggers from collectivist cultures, being less concerned with consistency and more with sociability,

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Collectivism and individualism are the most representative and applicable cultural factors for this

study. They clarify the main differences between the Netherlands, the U.S., and Taiwan. According to

the discussed theories, it is expected that Taiwanese bloggers frequently interact with in-group

members (Gudykunst et al., 1992), write similar content, and dress more alike (Cialdini et al. 1999).

An abundance of personal information and long content is also likely to be found. Conversely, Dutch

and American bloggers are expected to emphasize the uniqueness of dressing styles (Triandis & Suh,

2002), try to differ from their in-groups, and display a consistent taste.

2.2.2. Narcissism

As blogging, by its very nature, is narcissistic, the following section discusses theories of

narcissism in order to assess if it can account for the ways fashion bloggers accumulate cultural

capital. Narcissism is the pursuit of satisfaction from vanity or admiration of one’s own attributes.

Individuals with narcissistic personality disorder are found to have highly positive self-ratings of their

agentic traits, such as independence and dominance (Campbell et al., 2002a). For example, Brown &

Zeigler-Hill (2004) argued that narcissists tend to show off their social status, privileges, intelligence,

and physical attractiveness. Narcissists gain confidence and satisfaction through feedback from their

peers. This is corroborated by Morf & Rhodewalt (2001), who claim that narcissists are involved in a

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Self-presentation is a key concept of narcissism because they tend to show their advantages

attractiveness to gain positive feedback (Zeigler-Hill 2004). The way of self-presentation has

dramatically changed thanks to new technology (Jean & W. Keith, 2010). Blogs, for example, give

individuals a platform to present themselves to a wide online audience. As a result, individuals have

become more self-centered, spending time and energy to form a perfected image. They disclose

personal information (Amichai et al., 2010) in order to boast and garner attention. Moreover, people

committedly share pictures, quotes, and links for attention. ‘Like’ and ‘comment’ features on social

media platforms further provide instant gratification for individuals. This example of ‘fast fame’

encourages people to promote themselves in order to garner attention. Thus, another potential reason

for bloggers from collectivist cultures to post numerous images in one post, and at the same time

achieve cultural capital, derives from narcissistic tendencies.

Furthermore, narcissists not only tend to promote themselves (Jean & W. Keith, 2010) and are

eager to be leaders with dominant personalities (Campbell et al., 2002a), but they also believe

themselves to be all knowing (Jean & W. Keith, 2010). Therefore, bloggers are spontaneously

narcissistic, as they want to share, obtain feedback from others, and act as opinion leaders. Thus,

narcissism can explain why amateur bloggers are confident enough in the beginning to claim taste

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Interestingly, studies on narcissism find higher levels of narcissistic traits in individualist

cultures (Foster et al., 2003). People from individualist countries demonstrate narcissistic

characteristics by being self-concerned, independent, and less caring about others, as well as pursuing

a high social status (Bradlee & Emmons, 1992). These traits contradict with collectivist cultures,

which emphasize intimate, communal relationships in tight-knit groups (Tanchotsrinon et. al, 2007).

Therefore, it is expected that fashion bloggers in individualist countries, such as the U.S. and the

Netherlands, show narcissistic traits when accumulating cultural capital. They are further expected to

exhibit taste leadership for their own personal gain, as they seek recognition for their posts.

For this self-concerned generation of bloggers, appearances are essential. Thus, the displays of

blogs are decisive for the success of bloggers. Additionally, the combination of celebrity culture and

media stimulate mass society to establish their personal images as a “brand” (Jean & W. Keith, 2010).

Therefore, in order to discover the presentation differences of bloggers due to cultural influences, it is

necessary to include narcissism in the discussion. The different degrees of narcissism may impact how

bloggers promote themselves for gaining cultural capital. For instance, the more narcissistic a culture

is, the more likely it is for a blogger to post more pictures of themselves modeling outfits or self-taken

photographs (commonly known as ‘selfies’). Self-modeling means demonstrating the outfits the

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photographer, which are normally taken with a hand-held camera. Narcissists would be more eager to

post content, which is eye-catching and superficially captivating. On the contrary, bloggers from

cultures that do not excessively promote narcissism would discuss various topics, like the products,

rather than themselves.

However, all bloggers are narcissistic to a certain point, but individualist countries, especially

the U.S., a country defined by a highly matured narcissistic culture since the 1980s (Jean & W. Keith,

2010), is assumed to display narcissistic traits more than a collectivist country like Taiwan. The

theories suggest that people from narcissistic cultures boast more about privileges and physical

attractiveness (Zeigler-Hill, 2004) through pictures and words. More self-modeling photos and

dominant characteristics (Campbell et al., 2002a) are expected to be found. Furthermore, Narcissistic

people tend to demonstrate a positive orientation towards materialism. They are eager to gain power

(Jean & W. Keith, 2010), especially while boasting expensive items to demonstrate their power and

privilege. The following section further discusses theories of materialism.

2.2.3. Materialism

Materialism in philosophy is also called physicalism, which indicates a central purpose to acquire

material goods. People who are materialists believe in the importance of possessions in their lives, and

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have shown that the desire of possessing material objects is essentially connected to compulsive or

addictive consumer habits (Dittmar, 2005a, 2005b). This is highly relevant to blogs, which display

tastes and advise audiences on what to wear and purchase.

Furthermore, materialism is connected with narcissism in numerous ways. Narcissism values

wealth, physical appearance, social status, and power (Brown & Zeigler-Hill 2004), which all require a

materialistic attitude and money. Nowadays, a person’s appearance can be augmented through plastic

surgery, personal training, expensive beauty products, and the like. However, this requires an extensive

income. Money can further connect celebrity and higher social classes that are influential in society.

According to Frambach, Roest, & Krishnan (2007), the process of purchasing can be perceived

in three individual stages: pre-purchase, purchase, and post-purchase. In order to gain more

information on a specific product they are interested in during the pre-purchase stage, consumers look

for reviews from other consumers who have previously purchased the same item (Hennig-Thurau &

Walsh, 2003). Online channels, especially blogs, which provide non-commercial but excellent

opinions, thereby become one of the best platforms and references for consumers before making

purchasing decisions.

Providing buying advice is one of the means by which bloggers accumulate cultural capital

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cultures, the ways of presenting fashionable items and informing consumers of trends are different.

Materialists emphasize attractive, sponsored content due to the yielded benefit of economic capital

(sponsorship revenue) and their close brand partnerships. Therefore, for a blog, the higher the

materialist output is, the more likely it is that posts include more items from luxury brands,

sponsorship content, and relatively fashion irrelevant products.

Luxury brands are a modern set of symbols for Asian society members in particular to reform

their identities and social positions. The Taiwanese have the same obsession for designer goods that

sweeps most Asian countries today (Chadha & Husband, 2007). It is not surprising for an average

Taiwanese person to spend US$2-3000 on a bag, when that sum constitutes their monthly income

(Chadha & Husband, interview former head of Taipei 101, Lawrence Elms, 2007). Initially, Asian

customers bought luxury brands for the sake of their logos, which imply a social status. But as time

goes by, customers have evolved and absorbed the accumulated tastes of high-end fashion (Chadha &

Husband, 2007).

As the opinion leaders of the aesthetic realm, bloggers play a pivotal role in guiding their

audiences to higher levels of style, encouraging a keener awareness of seasonal trends, and creating

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pattern, they shop luxury products more frequently, thus raising their personal acceptable price levels

and spending more money (Chadha & Husband, 2007).

In light of previous studies on materialism, this paper hypothesizes that materialistic countries

should emphasize the possessions of products (Richins & Dawson, 1992), especially brand luxury

items. The connection of addictive buying and materialism (Dittmar, 2005a, 2005b) should encourage

bloggers to write more about shopping recommendations, sponsored content, and include more photos

of products. Moreover, the status symbol and identity reform phenomenon (Chadha & Husband, 2007)

of Asian society suggest that Taiwanese blogs are likely to include a high percentage of luxury brand

outfits.

2.3 Conclusion

The theory of individualist and collectivist cultures provides a useful framework when analyzing

the key drivers of successful fashion blogs, and why fashion bloggers from different cultures

accumulate cultural capital in different ways. In addition, narcissism and materialism can also provide

an explanation for the ways in which bloggers achieve cultural capital and, when compared with

cultural factors, why bloggers from different cultures seek different types of recognition.

In the next part of this paper, the contents of a selection of successful blogs are thoroughly

analyzed. The results from this study are then compared with the above claims in order to answer the

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3.

Methodology

In this chapter, the methodological process of Netnography is applied to the empirical analysis of

this paper. This section contains a discussion of field research to discover whether the cultural factors

have any influence on the presentations of blogs from different countries. It is composed of three

subsections. First, in the blog sampling in section 3.2.1., the definition and selection of successful

blogs are given. They are chosen based on leading social media channels and prestigious ranking

websites, such as Bloglovin and Style99. Second, in section 3.2.2., a blog analysis employs the theory

of cultural capital as a foundation to measure the bloggers’ abilities to demonstrate taste

discrimination. Then, the qualitative analysis software NVivo 9 and ground theory method are

introduced and linked with the third section 3.2.3., which discusses the coding method. As a result, the

central cultural factors and the coding comparison processes of this study are mapped.

3.1. Research Design

3.1.1. Country selection

In order to analyze and compare the key drivers of successful fashion blogs in different cultures,

the Netherlands and Taiwan are chosen as examples to represent Eastern and Western countries based

on similar size of the population and territory. The U.S. is added, as it is the country with the highest

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3.1.2. Netnography

In this study, samples of blogs from the three countries are collected and analyzed with

netnography (Kozinets, 1964). Netnography is a qualitative research method by nature because it

involves the observation of textual discourse (Kozinets, 2002). This method is suitable because it is an

immersive social media approach and offers high accessibility to a broad spectrum of respondents

(Cooke, 2008), such as bloggers and followers. The non-participant observation extensively benefits

this study in selecting samples. The characteristics of openness and anonymity allow the researcher to

collect cultural insights from contextualized online data. It does not only offer continuity between

posts and blogs, but also offers terrific flexibility for making observations and analyzing. Thus,

netnography is the most applicable method to study blogs from different cultures.

3.1.3. Time span

The time span for this study was set up for three months in 2014, and the qualified blogs were

selected according to their ability to obtain cultural capital, which is convertible into economic and

social capital. All the blogs are examined by 10 posts each, in other words, 300 posts from three

countries in total. The verbal and visual texts, such as pictures, writing style, videos, comments of

audiences, and the interviews from other media channels such as Vogue.com and Elle.com, are

(32)

3.2. Field research

3.2.1. Blog Sampling

In order to measure the cultural capital of successful fashion blogs, the following criteria to

measure web popularity and online attention are identified: the number of page views, the number of

replies on blog posts, the number of clicks of links to other websites, the numbers of sales made in

online stores, and the amount of followers on any related social media site, such as Facebook fan

pages, Twitter, and Instagram. Most of these numbers can be found directly on the blogosphere, or are

relatively simple to measure by using online analysis packages like Google analytics. Sales numbers of

products would be confidential for the companies and harder for researchers to obtain. Therefore, it is

difficult to analyze the influence of blogs on the profits of individual companies. However, one can

still roughly discover how powerful the bloggers are by measuring how fast certain items they

recommend are sold out online or offline.

Furthermore, besides online attention in terms of page views or number of followers, most

successful bloggers receive other benefits, such as economic resources and social connections. It is

common that popular bloggers receive sponsoring from fashion companies by means of money, gifts,

and invitations to exclusive events. These economic and social benefits both contribute to the

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Additionally, the sponsors or bloggers might hide this cooperation in order to gain more trust from

audiences or to avoid disputes. Therefore, the best methods to measure a blog’s cultural capital are

through the online statistics and netnography, as defined earlier.

The definition of a successful blog analysis has two presumptions. First, the blogger has a

relatively high income or profit from blogging, at least more than an average job. Therefore, bloggers

need to be well recognized by the fashion industry and by advertisers. The financial rewards vary from

being paid per article, displaying advertisements, or other forms of sponsorship. The second

presumption is that a blog has a huge influence online. If the blogs are known worldwide, have

millions of page views (website traffic), and numerous social media followers (Instagram, Twitter,

Facebook, YouTube, and Pinterest), they are qualified as successful. Therefore, in this study, the

success of blogs is measured by the cultural capital indicators, such as the number of page views,

number of replies, and the amount of followers.

Moreover, Bloglovin, a leading blog ranking website, is used for selecting blogs from the

Netherlands and the U.S. On this website, the blogs are ranked by the number of followers they have.

The blogs in Taiwan are selected by cross-comparing the page views of Wretch and Pixnet. In order to

gain a comprehensive overview of blogs beyond their page views and follower numbers, the online

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by using Google link data, Majestic Search Engine Optimization (SEO), and Facebook and Twitter

Application Program Interfaces (APIs).

In this study, 10 blogs were selected from the Netherlands, the U.S., and Taiwan that have

achieved a sizeable audience, relying on the ranking of the websites mentioned above. The aim was to

select the most influential bloggers by all the criteria listed above and the amount of followers of

different social media channels, such as Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. Due to the different

population sizes, the diversity of activeness in different social media channels (for example, one

Taiwanese blogger barely uses twitter and Bloglovin), and different calculation of blog spaces

(Taiwanese blog sites can show the accumulated amount of visitors while the other two countries do

not), the standards vary between countries. Dutch blogs are deemed successful if they have more than

5,000 followers on both Bloglovin and their Facebook fan page, or if they achieve more than 250,000

followers on Instagram (see Table 1). For American blogs, they need to have more than 200,000

followers on both their Bloglovin and Facebook fan pages, or 60,000 followers on Instagram (see

Table 1). Last but not least, Taiwanese blogs need to obtain more than 10 million accumulated visitors

and 20,000 individual visitors per day, or more than 40,000 followers on their Facebook fan page (see

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These blogs are primarily fashion blogs that discuss clothes, cosmetics, and relevant fashion

industry topics; thus, blogs dealing with topics such as traveling and food were eliminated. Another

selection criterion was that the focus of the blogs has to be on dressing styles, rather than cosmetics

only or DIY topics. The blogs have to be about mainstream fashion, thus, blogs that targeted specific

groups (mothers and older people, etc.) are excluded. In addition, the blogs have to be written by an

individual as a personal blog in order to eliminate blogs run by professionals, who might be building a

portfolio of work, and companies, who are using blogs for marketing purposes. Next, those blogs

written by men are eliminated because the style and content of men’s blogs are distinctly different

from female blogs. Women’s blogs focus more on their own fashion choices, while male blogs are

found that emphasize both men and women styles (Mcquarrie et al. 2013). Therefore, it is more

precise and useful for this research to target female fashion blogs. Following this, the blogs’ pictures or

styles have to be mostly demonstrated by the bloggers themselves, which consequently excludes blogs

that only report fashion trends, such as street looks or celebrities’ outfits. Finally, blogs that have been

active for more than three years and are still active during the time of this study are chosen for this

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Table 1

The number of followers in different social media platform

Country Fashion blog Bloglovin *1

Twitter Facebook Instagram

NL Style Scrapbook 161,640 64,272 865,518 354,721

NL Fash n chips 5,859 1,902 5,055 8,726

NL Raspberry & Rouge 3,156 1,859 4,401 42,359

NL Lizzy van der Ligt 3,948 2,620 6,524 50,672

NL Liza Chloë 2,130 4,129 2,304 26,496

NL After DRK 31,188 13,322 36,599 62,539

NL Come over to the dark side we have candy (COTTDS)

11,778 6,467 10,008 23,798

NL Cocorosa 18,540 8,772 38,173 43,756

NL Chapter Friday 30,638 11,145 17,591 43,689

NL Negin Mirsalehi 4,789 NP*3 76,537 1,289,486

Country Fashion blog Bloglovin Twitter Facebook Instagram

US Fashion Toast 381,260 111,333 342,282 532,028

US Fashion Squad 231,102 38,078 301,103 183,199

US Cupcakes and Cashmere 271,491 194,845 292,491 198,184

US Sea of Shoes 207,087 96,217 33,769 123,385

US Song of Style 99,286 42,966 241,494 1,417,218

US Karla’s Closet 148,289 23,426 NP 64,868

US Atlantic-Pacific 94,240 43,301 81,393 436,083

US Sincerely Jules 55,151 35,076 2,037 official new /26,745 unofficial

1,132,651

US VivaLuxury 26,509 10,654 218,583 168,169

US Wendy's Lookbook 76,098 43,034 292,206 473,348

Country Fashion blog Pixnet *2 Twitter Facebook Instagram

TW Benshee。花猴。購物狂 123,574,985 1,302 291,396 35,676 TW 小安 oops!!! i am An 82,474,586 345 NP 77,347 TW 潔西卡 10,759,907 127 8,669 NP TW 娃娃 yumi 洋娃娃的夢幻城 堡♡MAKE UP BEAUTY 20,824,371 941 98,080 NP TW 韓妞!金老佛 愛玩美世界 9,383,253 603 42,108 NP TW Hannah 妞's fashionlist 36,027,033 838 245,502 NP

TW ♥STELLA'S BLOG♥ Stella

小美人 史黛拉 13,707,487 1,106 96,719 1,682 TW 米粒 Q MillyQ's Blog 11,290,066 717 58,588 11,797 TW 【 I ♥ 77 】時尚、百變、 愛 14,235,191 915 54,108 NP TW 購物狂小姐 Little Miss SHOPAHOLIC NP *4 1,104 48,609 13,420

*1 All the data were coded at the end of April 2014.

*2 The number of accumulated visitors, which was coded at the end of April 2014 *3 Negin Mirsalehi does not have a Twitter account

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3.2.2. Blog Analysis

In this research study, cultural capital is measured by the ability of the blogger to exhibit taste

leadership, inform audiences about current trends, and encourage interpersonal exchange. This in turn

is convertible into economic and social capital, once bloggers are part of the established fashion

system. To assess if ways of accumulating cultural capital differ according to cultural factors, blogs

from three countries were compared: the U.S., Taiwan, and the Netherlands. The U.S. and the

Netherlands are identified as individualist cultures, whereas Taiwan is defined as a collectivist country.

10 posts were analyzed from each of the 30 blogs (10 from each country) during a fixed time period

between 15th April 2014 and 15th July 2014. The verbal and visual texts visible in these blogs are

analyzed and the pictures, the writing style, the responding behaviors, and the taste judgments made by

bloggers, as well as the followers’ comments over time, are examined. The textual method treats blog

posts as primary sources in order to examine whether cultural factors play a part in the choices made

by the bloggers regarding their presentation.

Moreover, published blog posts and follower comments for each blog are analyzed. Both the

pictures and writing styles of the posts are examined to see how they differ across cultures. The data is

manually coded using NVivo 9, a qualitative analysis software package. For the pictures, the average

number of pictures in one post; the average number of pictures that are not related to fashion; the

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shots of the same outfit from different angles; the percentage of self-modeling; the percentage of

runway, magazine, or online pictures; and the percentage of pictures with their own logos are all

analyzed. The percentages and averages are calculated from 100 posts per country and presented in a

table.

When evaluating writing style, data is coded according to the following: the explanation of the

outfit or item; signs of self-deprecation; feigning similarity; how often they revealed the sponsorship,

shop, or brand; the personal nature of the post (e.g. information about family members, skin condition,

body size etc.); how often the blogger referred to the previous post; and the economic and social

capital yielded. Once again, from 100 posts per country, the percentage for each of the above aspects is

calculated and presented in a table for comparison. To measure the social and economic capital, data is

collected on sponsorships, paid advertising, gifts, invitations, etc. and used to calculate the percentage.

Finally, the number of comments of followers per post is counted and divided by 100. They are

also coded as supportive, promotional (if the readers are also promoting their own blogs or other sites),

referral (if they share on their own social media websites or on the others), critical, and asking

questions.

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comparison method to identify emergent and different themes in blog posts from the three countries.

The blog posts were compared according to content, style, placement, and subject matter and then

compared with the cultural theories such as collectivism, individualism, narcissism, and materialism to

see if trends emerge.

Eventually, blogging style is coded with the written content (such as writing style, length, topics

etc.), comments from audience (to see the interaction and feedback) and visual content (to detect how

bloggers present pictures and what are they about). As mentioned above, the purpose of this empirical

study is to explore whether cultural background changes how bloggers accumulate cultural capital

through displaying taste discrimination. Therefore, it is more accurate to code and analyze the written

and visual content of blogs, and to cross-examine if they exhibit traits of specific cultural elements.

3.2.3. Coding Method

When analyzing the visual and written content of the blog posts, the following codes are applied.

The overview of coding can be found in table 2. The number of pictures per post is manually counted

(100 posts per country) to determine the average number of pictures per post. The reason to code the

number of pictures is to discover if the amount is consistent with the trait of collectivism, which is

defined by a passion for sharing, and to examine whether other cultural factors might link to the

display of pictures. If the connection is positive, collectivistic bloggers would post more pictures than

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of pictures not related to fashion, such as food, scenic photos, and restaurants, are counted and divided

by 100 for each country. The result shows the average number of pictures that are not about

dressing and products.

Moreover, the number of different outfits in one post is counted according to the look. Each outfit

is counted as one, and the result reveals how many styles per post are included. The total number for

each country is divided by 100, which yields the average number of outfits. Each item is coded as an

individual product and the average number of individual items is calculated by dividing the total

number by 100 for each country. It should be noted here that there is a difference of coding between

outfit and items. For example, if the blogger is wearing a suede jacket, a wrap blouse, a skirt, sandals,

a scarf, a bag, and four different accessories, it is coded as one outfit but as 10 items.

To calculate the percentage of same outfit with different angles, different angles or close up

shots of the same outfit are coded as one while single shots are coded as zero. This means that if there

is more than one picture for the same outfit (top, button, and other accessories), it is coded as positive

one. For the percentage of self-modeling the outfit, bloggers wearing the clothes they want to share

themselves are coded as one. Bloggers posting the item picture or pictures of other people wearing the

products are coded as zero, regardless of whether the models are hired by bloggers or just pictures

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Furthermore, to determine the percentage of runway, magazine, or online pictures, the number

of pictures not taken by the blogger is counted and the total number of pictures per country is divided

by 100. This indicates that as long as the pictures are not shot by the blogger herself or the cooperating

photographers, the pictures are considered to be outsourced and are counted as such. Finally, posts

with logos or signatures are coded as one, while posts without logos or signatures are coded as zero to

calculate the percentage of logos with their pictures. As long as a post has any picture with a

conspicuous brand logo, it is coded positive, regardless of how many pictures with logos there are in

the same post.

When analyzing the visual content of the blog posts, the following codes are applied.

The percentage of sharing feelings is calculated by coding the posts where the blogger expressed

feelings (happy, sad, excited, upset, etc.) as one. Posts that do not share feelings, and which only

describe products or do not exhibit emotion, are coded as zero. The length of content from 100 posts

is coded in four different categories: none, short, middle, and long. Less than 100 words are defined as

short, 101-500 words are defined as middle, and more than 500 words are defined as long. To

determine the percentage of the outfit/item explanation, posts where the blogger would explain the

details of the products (brand and shopping links are not considered positive), such as the material, the

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For the percentage of revealing the sponsorship, posts that mention that the post or products are

sponsored (either money, free gifts, special access, other privilege invitations or any other cooperative

activities) are coded as one. Posts without sponsorship are coded as zero. To gage the percentage of

revealing the shops/brands, posts where the blogger acknowledges the item brand and where readers

can buy the items are coded as one. Posts without this information are coded as zero. The reason for

coding the percentage of revealing the sponsorship and percentage of revealing the shops/brands is to

explore if a country’s blogs exhibit the characteristics of materialism.

Moreover, the economic and social capital are closely linked to cultural capital. Bloggers

receiving financial benefits are coded as one, while those without are coded as zero, thus

demonstrating the percentage of economic capital. To calculate the percentage of social capital,

bloggers with invitations for exclusive events such as press conferences, runway shows, opening

parties, VIP treatment, or any other exclusive activities are coded as one. Those without invitations are

coded as zero. The percentage of self-deprecation/ridicule is determined by coding bloggers who

express self-deprecation or ridicule to belittle the glamor of their lifestyle as one, and coding those

who do not express self-deprecation or ridicule as zero.

Moreover, to calculate the percentage of feigning similarity, bloggers who attempt to bridge

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information (such as weigh, height, family members, and details of personal life) are coded as one.

Posts exclusively about fashion-related content are coded as zero. To gage the percentage of referring

to previous posts, bloggers linking back to pervious posts are coded as one. Bloggers not doing this

are coded as zero. Finally, to identify the style category, the content is coded in the following

categories: dressing, mood, diary, cosmetic, skin care, medical beauty, cosmetic treatment, hair and

nails, traveling, food, DIY, fashion industry, fashion industry, shopping, interior design, event, career,

technology product, and video post. In order to calculate the coding, the overall percentage per country

that is coded positive as one and negative as zero is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. The result is

then summed up and divided by 100 per country. In the next chapter, an analysis of the collected and

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Table 2

The coding among the Netherlands, the United States, and Taiwan

Coding

Visual Content

Average number of pictures per

post Add up all the pictures and divide by 100 for each country. Average number of pictures that is

NOT about dressing and products

Add up all the pictures, which are not about dressing and products and divide by 100 for each country.

Average number of outfits Add up all the outfit numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Average number of Individual items

Add up all the item numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of same outfit with different angles

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of same outfit with different angles is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of self-modeling the outfit

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of self-modeling the outfit is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of runway, magazine, online pictures

Add up the entire runway, magazine, online picture numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of logos with their pictures

Add up all the numbers of picture with logo and divide by 100 for each country.

Readers’ Feedback

Average number of comments Add up all the comment numbers and divided by 100 for each country.

Written Content

Type of posts

Coded as dressing, mood, diary, cosmetic, skin care, medical beauty & cosmetic treatment, hair & nails, traveling, food, DIY, fashion industry, fashion industry, shopping, interior design, event, career, technology product, and video.

Percentage of sharing feelings

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of sharing feelings is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Length of content from 100 posts Coded as Short, Medium, Long, and None

Percentage of the outfit/item explanation

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of outfit/item explanation is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

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divide by 100 for each country. Percentage of revealing the

shops/brands

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of revealing the shops/brands is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of economical capital

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of economical capital is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of social Capital

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of social Capital is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of self-deprecation/ ridicule

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of self-deprecation/ ridicule is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of feigning similarity

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of feigning similarity is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of revealing personal information

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of revealing personal information is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide by 100 for each country.

Percentage of revering previous posts

Code positive as 1, and the negative is coded as 0. The overall percentage of revering previous posts is then calculated as 1=100%, 0=0%. Add up all the numbers and divide them by 100 for each country.

                 

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4.

Results

In this chapter the results are presented that are needed to answer the main research question,

namely: What is the influence of cultural factors on the presentation of successful fashion blogs

from different cultures (such as the Netherlands, the United States and Taiwan) and how do they

differ from each other when they try to gain cultural capital? The results suggest that cultural

elements have positive effects on how bloggers present their aesthetic discrimination to collect cultural

capital. In the following section, the written content, comments, and visual content are discussed in

detail separately. In addition, the cultural factors are cross-examined with the results (see Table 7) and

further explain the influences of culture differences on the presentation choices of the bloggers. In

short, this chapter explains the results and their connection to cultural elements.

4.1. Overview

30 blogs from three different countries are included in this analysis. Following table 3, these are

categorized as follows: the cities where the bloggers currently live; the general background of bloggers,

such as occupations (if not counting blogging as a full-time job) and education; the date the blogs

started; and the economic benefits and social connections. Most of the bloggers live in metropolitan

cites and have fashion relevant jobs as magazine editors, stylists, models, photographers, interior

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Negin Mirsalehi started in 2013. It is common among all bloggers to obtain economic and social

capital, such as sponsored items and fashion show invitations (Mcquarrie et al. 2013).

Table 3

General background of blogs and economic/social capital

Fashion blog

Country/City Background Date started

Economic capital: Paid opportunities

Social capital: Inclusion opportunities

Style Scrapbook

NL /Amsterdam She is originally from Mexico. She is a freelance editor for GLAMOUR (NL) magazine.

Nov., 2007 Designed 2 collections of a highly successful camera bag line with Kipling (first production sold out within a few hours). She is sponsored to travel around and photo shoot.

Gave a TED talk about “The keys to successful Blogging”.

Fash n chips NL/Rotterdam She is a stylist Nov., 2010 She writes for VOGUE NL.

She is invited to Bloggerne launch party in Amsterdam

Raspberry & Rouge

NL /Amsterdam She is a freelance stylist, writer, and fashion consultant

May, 2011 Blogging for VOGUE NL on a weekly basis. Sponsored by brands such as Pimkie, Zanira for free trips and photo shooting.

River island press event, private HQs tour and was given a preview for the upcoming Fall/Winter collection

Lizzy van der Ligt

NL /Amsterdam She is a stylist at Scotch & Soda

Feb., 2011 Discount for clothes and her audiences.

Pull & Bear VIP store opening.

Liza Chloë NL /Amsterdam She works in Marie Stella-Maris as the concepts & branding creative. She is also the guest blogger for VOGUE NL

Jan., 2011 Sponsored by the clothing brand WE, H&,M and

VintyWomen. Blogging for VOGUE NL. Discount or free festival tickets for her audiences

Pull & Bear VIP store opening.

After DRK NL /Amsterdam She used to study Communication & Multimedia Design in Breda

Nov., 2009 She has a collection for Nelly.com. Sponsorship with Cartier.

She is invited to London for project launch.

Come over to the dark side we have candy (COTTDS)

NL /Amsterdam She is also working in PR for a film distribution company.

Apr., 2009 Sponsored by H&M, Charlie May, and Nike summer 2014

collection.

NP

Cocorosa Netherlands She has moved to New York City and is freelancing as a trend forecaster

Apr., 2009 She has collaborations: cocorosa x H&M for Fashion Planet Magazine.

She was invited to the Platinum Guild

International showroom for their Spring jewelry preview in New York Chapter

Friday

NL /Amsterdam Editor at ELLE Netherlands, award nominated marketing book author, and secret shoe hoarder

Jan., 2009 She has worked with partners like Chanel, Philips, L’Oréal and H&M.

She is the hostess of Blog Class Event.

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