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SIGNATUUR
MICROVORM:
SHELF NUMBER MICROFORM:
MMETA 0032
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FA
()T~NU FA
OJ"~" HO l 'r J A V A
IlV
\t L'S .\li(IIIR'I'A I).E WIT.
";INGAPORE :
. ~ïïL\I'I'S TIM.Ii;S·' f> IolH., 1898.
I.
-
CONTKNTS.
- :8:-
Page.
~'A(!'fS A.NJ) ~'AN 'fES A RO T JA \" A • 1
A llATAVJA nOTEI- ]4
A 'OLONIAL HOM I!: 56
SOCJAJ, LlJo'E • 79
ULlMP'3EII or NA'I'IVE LIFE 108
(;r.T.tf'RJ!: O~' NA1'JV~J LIFE JN THE 'rHEET .
C/!. TUE Bj<~A 'R OP \'ROCODII,E, O~' Blll'I'ENY.ORG
PARI PRNGANTt;N- 'l'RE WEDDING 0)0' TUE IlWE .
JN TBl> HIl,I, OUN'l'rty A "OKSSA .,
EI'ILOGUE .
I'lIBL18H1t~R';' ~O'1'E :--
154- J74 197 20tl
~29
242 ::W:l 20
Tlti buok ij; repl'intcd fl'Ol1l the
"Straits TiDle~," without the authol' having hud flny tlpportllnity to J'Pvi~t' t Llc I'rouf~,
Facls an d F anc ies abou t Java.
\\'Il~;~ tI", Lau.,' Dolly \';111 <lo'l" IJ 'c""Il, in an. 11"('1" ti 'lU". tion . an 'nt 11 'I" 1(1,1'(111- dal'y hll,bant1"s wh reabout!', 1lll!I'lIIUI" tl sOlllething ,'nguc abo:r~ "J:wn, J iL[):IIl,
l' JU] it 1" " "lH) Imf! Jil\'a ill hl'1"
Illinrl a tilO IllOilt •. i III pOl;;.·i! ,11' .. "I' tho () illllolJ ... ijdl' 1,1011'1''':. .\nd, in·1 'cd.
m'cl')' '!JOolboy jlloinb fhe l:il"1'1" of
lIll 'Cl" 'nwllioll:> n(;Ljlla;nlllIlC(! Hl. J lIpitn:
anc! Japan lil'~ tl'allSpal"t'lIt 1111 1 h'J ;!j.!_
heli pOl"e '/aill Llf 111:lIly all d,ogant tca- tahll'. But .Tm' a ~ Wh" Lil' I dof'll
~hol"' mlty it Ilu tlml ()wn" tlll' ,.:tl"allgl'- soul1fling llal110; alld in \Vila! ~:njl,ll' ~ BOLLS l1lay th is othor UHillta 'l'hlllu hu
1
Hwls wui Fall ies aLoul Java,
fancied 1'0 Hoat? Time wa' when I liever ,n,w a glob - uil E'plll1 about with til no of parall 18 allLl degre ,a' with ~UIlI(1 \'a"t 'pider' weIJ- witlJuul a littJe ~ilut'k of IIl'pri 'e a tinding
,I Java" ktllg:ing in the me Ite, How ,'uuld th ro I 0 latitude and longitude to
~11 'h a. thing ofdl' am and fancie ? All attrmpt at cl tCl'mining lito acreag of Ilw minbo\\',ol' th v(joloC'i alstl'ata ofa Fata )lol'O'ann wonlcl hardlyhavo eomed 1 cs ' al _ urd, I wo Ilid have l'Iono of su IJ
\'ain ('xactitude: but till chose to tiJink of Java a 'ituate in thc am rogion witll tlie I'land of AvalIon, tba
Lalld of thc Loto -Eater~, palm-slJaded Buj\(,lllia by tlle 8 a, and the Fo!' t of Bro' Jiand M rIin' melodiou gl'l1\'o, ,\nd it emed to me that the very
:'I:la. whieh girt tho magie hor -
:,1 iJl k 'eping their golden sand llllde- lil J. from th gl'O S clay of the outer world- must b unliko all othet' water- tranquil ever, erystalline, with a even-tinted glow of strange sea·
2
ft W('I" nnd 1 h fia"h or j ",rl-lik fj"h ' gleanling lip from Lhe \l\lS nud d
I ep , Alld higher titan els whol'(>, urely, the ki i", 11 's .. ed witlt til ,ign of tlt 'ontll 1'11 UlUf't ri a bcl\'(\
thu 'e wood" wllp!,p th ni!'d~ of Para- di 0 ue ti '
Wher i' it now, thc lury :lnri thc (Ir alTI? Th soil fJaY3 i!' h I lIndrl' 111,\'
fc l. T kilO\\" - to lil)' '()~t- tllnt if til!' slIlTOlluding s 'a~ hl' dill'rrent 1'1'0111 any otllrl' budy of wHt 1', tllp , Hn> dlifln~, , n in b in more slIhje('t ti) trmp st, tllr- 1I10i1. anel :lId ion 'lLlIall~, I tilld t h,' benigninflu nee ofthe 'olltll 1'11 '1'0 ,:
not a v I'y brilliant con"t Ilat,i 11 hy til waY- lltt riy IU1done 1 y th ft 'I') flll'y
or
til noonday- lil I : all([ have' leamt to
nppre 'iate the fil\(' il'tmynfthp inll rit,>,j
~tyl anrl tirl , a;: I'umparrd wiUI I!lP
present habilat of tllo ,ai,1 Rird. of'
!Jam ll~,·, Aut! yet -0111 t,ha~rillilJg CXpt'!'i 'l1t'P nolwith 'tanclin/!, anI'! ))lillig!'"
th d adly l\.1l1n s' of ~\) mally da)':>, til· fe\'el' of 0 man)' ultry night . and th
'>
v
.I!'act8 and Fancies about Java.
home-sinkne s of all hOllrs- I ha\'e still ome of the oid 10\'0 fol' tllis conntry left: and I begin to llnderstalld some- thillg of tbo fa ('ination by ",hieh it holds the Northernel' who ha bl'eathed its odoul'-Iad n air fol' to I lig a time.
.'0 t1mt, forgetting his home, hi fl'iend, and bis kindr d in thc gmy NOl'th, he is content to live on dreamily by some lotos-ovorstal'l'ed lake: and, dyin"', be bnried llnd r the palm-trees.
NO. l- ARRIVAL.
)fy fir t impres ion of Java wa not thc ono of efTnlgent light and ovor] ower- illg magnifi >)1 C f ololll', 'en rally exp rien 'cd at th fir t ight of !\ tropi- eal country: but, on thc eontrul'y, of
'om tbing nmpeakubly tend ", thel'eal, und soft. It was in the I eginning of tlte rainy ca on. Under:l .'ky filmy with diaphanous ",hit clou " 01', mtllOr, 'loml- ono C'ont inllou. f1eecy t xturo, in whieh II ting' of til) hid Jen blue was f Itmth rthall.c II- tlte eahadapearly ahcon \\'ith hcre llml thel'c 'hangefully
<1
Facû and FttW8 a}xmt JaNa.
fliekering white lights, and wind-ruffied streaks of a pale violet. The slight haziness in the air somewhat dulled the vivid green of innumerable i lets and tbiekly-wooded reefs, scattered all over thc sea; and, blurring their outlines, aeemed to lift them until they grew vague and airy as ~he little elouds of a mackerel sky, wafted hither and thither by the fa.intest wind. And even the bloek of square white buildings on the landing-plaee-pointed out as the rail- way station and the Ctlstom house8- stood mellow and softly outlinod against a background of whitish-grey sky and mist-blurred trees. Slowly the st amer glided on. And, as we 1l0W approaehed the roadstead of Batavia, there eame swimmillg towal'ds tbe ship numbers of native boat , darting out from between the i lets, alld diving up out of thc sbadows aloug th wooded shore, like 80 many watel'fowl. 'wiftest of all were thc
" wing-prao .' ,. very slight hulls, almost 6
I!acis and FanC{e8 about Java,
,
-
'disappearillg nndOl' t heil' on pnn1'11I011;<
whitish-browl1 sail, tapering lik" ti
bird's wing, and thl'own ba k Willl just the same impatiellt flill~
as if poised for a swoop and rak('- so exaetly resembling ,ea-gulls "killI- ming along, as to ren der thr ompal'ison almost a de eription, ("
they eame, drawing pl11'pli h flll'1'(l\\',;
through tho pearly "'rey8 and white:- nr the sea, And, in th ir wakp, dart in,:.(
hit her alld thithel' with the jerky mo\'l':'- ment of wah>r-!lpider , quitt> a ,'wnl'l11 of littlc blaek canoo -hollowrd-t'lIt tree-trwlks, kept in balalll'() hy a 1'1'111111'-
work 'of 10llJt bamboo- ta\'\~,', whicll spread on either slde like "prnwling sClIrrying leg , As they apPl'oaclted, w(' saw that the boatswere pil d with man,}' tinteu fruit, above whielt lhe IIlIk .. d bodie of the oarsmen 1'08(', bl'Own alld shiny, :mu tho wet pallulc gl 'am ti irl its leisuroly-seoming dip :Iud I'ii'l', whielt yet sent the smalt 'kil\, bo\\nd- ing and darting onward, They wem
6
Facfs and Fctn ies aboul Jaca,
alongside SOOIl, and the natives clam- hel'ed on board, laden with fl'agl'ant ware, Tltey elid not take the troubl' of lIawking it abollt t,l1ough, agile as they had proyed themselves, buteahnly sql1at- ted down al11iil tbeir piled-up basket of yellow, ,carlet, erimson, and orange fmits- a meJley of eolours almost bar- bal'ie in its l1lagnifieenee, notwithstand- ing tbe obel'el' tints of blackening pUl"
pI , nnd 'ooi, repoE'cful "'reen- a1ld calmly awaited u tomers, Under their gaudy kerclliefs pietlll'esquely framing tllo .lark brows, their urown eyes had thal look of thollghtful- or is it all thollghtles ?- contentment, whieh we of th North know only in the eyes of babi s, erooning in their mother's Jap, AIl:1. a~ they answered 0111' que tion " . Lh 11' 'pc eh had omething hildlikc t,oo, with its of 'on onants anel elear vow('ls, long-elrawn-out on a musical lllocll1lntion that glid'd all up and dOWll tilt' ga11lut, The)" had a great eh arm for 111 , their flatnesB of features aDd
7
Frwts and Fancies abouL J(wa.
meagreness of limbs notwith tan~l
ing: and I thought that, if not quite the fairies, they might well be thfl
"b rowmcs . " 0 f th at enchanted garden that men eaU Java.
But-alas! for day-dreaming-the grufI' authoritative voice of the quartermaster was heard on deck: and- after the man- ner of goblins at the approach of the Philistine-all the Iittle brownies vanished. They were gone in an instant:
and, in their pretty stead, eame porters
cabin~stewards
with trunks, andpassen~
gers in very new clothes. 'For we werc fast approaching: nnd, pre cntly, with n.
bigsighofrelief, the. t amerla.y ·till,aml we trod the quay of Tanjon'" Priok.
It would seem as if thc first half-hour of arrival must be the same everywh 1"(',
all the world over: but her , even in the initial scramble for the train, one notie es a differenee. Thore is a crowd . nnd there is no noise. No sCllffiing
und
stamping, no eries, no shouting, ilO
gruJf-voiced altercations. AU but inau- 8
trot on, big jr'altH'l'-trl1nk 011 tb ir 'houlder' : Lbo)' 10 nllL ltll.:tle, eath pa.tiontly awail- ing hi l1Irn at tIJ olti·, anel n til platrornl: and. a. they 'tand a ide
rOl" '0111' IJmrying, plH;llintT Euro]! all th ir 'L impa iblt- fa') a ~1l1l1e iJ
look of almo"t contelllptlluu,", ama7. - m 111. \\"11 hould thtl "orallg blanda"
tltu li '("ûl\l'l ously jostIe them? Aru til re noL mail)' JlOur ill a da)', and
IIlall)' day,. to ome aft.r tlti ? l\nd do th y n t kno\\' that :'Ha tc' 'ometh of tha o,'il"? Tit tmin IHl tart;d at la t, allel i hUIT)"- in/! throllrrh ft wild. tlr'tlry 'ounl ry: halfjunrrl hali' mar blan 1. Frolll Lh' rank uu I 1''''1' wth f 1 ru Il\vo cl antl I ulru h E, ri û '11I1llJ) 01"0 'OIlUt,-
palm>:, thci!' r1ark 'haoYf!Y (:ro\\'l1~ trallaely ma ive auov' Lh, Jl103 "'I'l'
'tem tltrouO'h which Hl' di tant
horizon 0-1 am palely. 1n. 01'<>11 'pa
YOllnfrll'(w'l talld ut h!:'l'I and tliOrc half
"ll'ul12:II'r! in I hl' tlH!wlill~
r C',
t 011i" of a plll'pll'-IlI<l~-ll!lll'll Ijan:! 1,bal truil' ibi (f'lldl'ill,'" "'w'tlt ;dl UI'II' tlte 10w'I'",111'1111\\,(0)(1. Tltie -,'L" 1)1' 1/alllbolJ l1\'Il I allel ,,',l~' iJl i IJ" l'I'l'lIill~ wind,
T!) 111" I'igllt ~tr 1 ,lil'': a 11 n~ ,'Iruigijl
":lllid, dull a-I"lel 1111 ]l~1' h' 11I~tl'd , ..
i'I"~-: Lh, hl' Ci:e, iu pa il g, bIn 'k Il,' Ihr 111 ,tionle water. and a shi,-l' run tltrongh thr den I' 'lZctation along-the pdg -hl'oall-Ieal' d ban; na,: th pl' ad- ill~ froncls of til palm tt ,and !nim)-
;:a of frather,l' leafago, àb ,-e wbi 'b I hl' 'lilv r-Il1'üy tuft of bulru IH" ri e, ,\ft!'1' fI while tIJ junp:h' climini he' and ,., 'as s ; ttJ cl '.l va l' a'h f mar h
e 1I1ltl'y tJ'!:'tche away to tI! horizon,
\\' l' neUl'N1 it a, th Uil wa ttinO': alld, ll! I1gh it had not brok en througlt I hl' '1 nd , th fi l'y .. lob had 'uffu cl tlwil' whiten 1:\ with a cl p, dull plirplo a of JU ulel ·ring flame, A t' l11ulou splendour ndd nly ,hotol' l'
Lile l'ushbeds and rank waving grasses 10
of th mal', hy lanrl; th hinin r rrcel- pri k cl sliert of wat l' crim oned; allel alon" thc eanal movillg like an incan- de cent la vn-stl'earTl, th hl'otl I '-cL1rl'inJ:(
banana 1 ave, "'P111 d (' IIntain!'\ of pur- ple light, and thr palmetto anel dpli,'al r mimo a. fronds crl' ,,- tran par"nt in 111"
all-pervadill ' l'osinr" - alm ~t inllllH- l rial. .Evpn aft l' til!' bllrnin:x r l~r of tlte un, p I' ei I' d flll' :t bl'jpf llIon1l'ni.
ha lsunk u\\'ay, th ~f' 1Il:ln'l'lIoll"colollr:<
lid nut rad , IHlt. "lortl~r . hininrr Iln,
,.. ('med tl UP 1,lip n:ll ural tint of tlli~ w nlel'fullantl indepelldcnt.ol'f-lIll :lnel
~pa8on Th 11. all at on" , tlJry 11'('1'1'
'xting lÎ h <1 by llf' l'apic11y-fallül1 elu"k, as a lil' mi"ht)1(' undu a Iinvl'J' o\'
<I h ": and, ft lP\\' minlltp,. aftc>r, il \\'fI"
JI i"h1.
At th lamplit ~lation of' Bntal'ia, 1 bailcd ont> of Ihe \'{~hil'les waitinl( Ollt-
.... iclr- n "lIrilln, littlp t\\'o-wlll' ]rd l'on-
"pyaJIl:l' wlii IJ. with it .. pnll1'Ill0n lall- t rIIs, ail'ily !'upportl'd roof, anel lung
hnft~ hetwl'('l1 ",hiel! a limin111i"I' U
Pa is mul FanciCfI "bouf ,/"t'".
p ny trott d, look d like a fi ry- yrd l'o('kcIJAfel' tllfll cl 11 rl about. mO\ling it, Ion .... nlitennHr.
r
hoi 1 cl 111yself011 to tb ,Ioping ~(,;tt. ']11 '. rol' mI' tim wa.' dl'jy n throlllrh an ;LI'rnup, tl1f'
fT e on ith I' idr of whir" mud -a eloudy d;uk ne " again;:.t the ral trip of ky ,. I'h (Iel. Thpl'!' W(lQ all in\' 1'-
ant hi h-pitrhrd twitt J'jng 11' hil'di"
amollg 1 he ) av('s: and, In' ry now :\I1d th 11, H fl'agl'anc' of invi ibl El wer'-
'am floating Ollt on th wind Ir. air.
We pa ed il hdl huildiJlg, him- m I'illg white throngh rhe dé1l'kn . the (~ov 1'1101'- rClwral\ 1 ala(·(·
r
wa rold. Th n til hore's h of~ ûlattl'ed o\'el' a bl'irlgr flnd, pa t tlw turn (ll' til l'O:\r!. i1 I 11" 1'011' ol' I I'illiant window ...fla hrd "1' witll a IVllil.' hlflzr
flr
Ipf'lrit· licrht in tIl(' di t1:lI1 "'.P:I'''t tlw ril. plf'IIlIf'IlL -hop-wilt IlIlI'"
.111 1I111 I ft ... id!' uI' t 111' ,,1,1'1',-1 t hl' ot!Jt'l' rl!lllaiuing dal'k. rp;Ül1l"'[r ~ fL loi"ul'('ly
rl'OWU 1110\lt' I; oprn rtlITlap;>s b tlJ'ing light-drcs cd women t ':0111 el' ning
1:2
jj'acts amel Fa?leie~ ohouflJCI/I'a.
--_._----
entrrtainment howle] al ng: ft many- windowp] 'Inh blazrd \lp: ft ('an;1I lIone ,vith ;1 hunc1l'rd ..,Jen ),",1' i"ipf'nl'~ f I'f'Rrrt cl li~ht had l'r.nrhcd 11I~' dC"linntitlll, lllP -nhlll'hof Hij wijk.
13
A Batavia Hotel.
[F, in thi ommonrlac(l-IO\'ill~ ngc, rlJpr hl' onp thing mol'(' 'Oml)lOllphll'l'
anu ntLPl'ly devoiel or I'IJrll'<lI'Î'('I' t ha Il
anotll I' it, i n ltot('1. Hotel. ! I\'h('I'(' 11(' raill'oad th 'I' be tIJ y, TIlt' IOl'Olllll-
liv catt r tb lU illong it hinin~
patb to 'ethel' with ('inrl!'[", rhUI('- ped"
and tomi t" Th Y H r ' vt>l'ywh 'I'e : :l,lHl p,' I'ywhel' tbc,\' a!'e th!' .. all1\', The pl'OV rbial lH'a" UI' nOL "I) inJi:- lilwui,llalJly alikc, ,'urely, Cl whilll~i
'ni itna"ination Inuy be lJal'don'd fol' t'ancyi 11" ti, lifl'en'n 'e bl>TWI'Of) t hl. (lOlI"
,. shail'\,Pllin"" in ,'ome, 'cott-h kailyard
Lb~ petits-pois cOlluetli hl.l' ul'l':llIgl·d 14
,I Ralo!'i" IIvlel,
in Chr,'r!" "'hop-winrl(lll', nnd thr ZII('-
lil'l'('I'I~.'(,lllllól",h cl d ,)\\'1 1 I" a I!I'I"'II p"b,' i" ~()1I1" - l'on,!:!-ja\\"C'd 1'l'lI~~i:IIl'~ pl:d,'
öI oIim'rf'nl'!', til<' fal' :lIld faint alld I';II,\'if,,1 illlillllg'," til t h,' 1l101'!' oll\'ioll!\
011t' h,'t \\","'11 I lil' gllrl"IIIHn, tilr 1"\'1'1\,,11
\,Iwf. :Illd t iJ" Kon i!!lidl !'I'ell, ,"i-"I,,·I' l)uII;well HeallllPn {:ellilf,', B"t a ""rpI.
1111 ",":Ii,'\'l'!' ,,:Irt fElIl'lIll\.' it m:t~ Opl~1I it· dull winrl \\'-I',"e~,
"a'
not ,,' '" iI 11:1111,' lIatin' of tl,1' t:Olllltl'y, antl d''I'lar- ing til(' 'itizl'll~iliji rlWI'Pul'. Tu ;.(l'llill~ tlfKP ech d ~pt1ir \)1' mnkinga difl't'I'/"1l 'ein wordi', \Vhm',' thèl'r iK Ilono in fac't. :
alld thu,:, frum OI'C'l1lul'g to Valentia, :111c1 from IInllllll 'l'fo~t Lo 1\I(',sina, til(' thill!! i, Ktill callod ;1 h tf>1. allrl f he' tr:t" 111'1' till cxpect anc! find. Ih
-illlJr ~wi~" p rti I' an I th allll' 1'(·(1 vel\'\,t ) rti'!'C',., Lh!' '1.IllC ind 'I'ilmblt,
111('11 01',11 'IT," st \I' 'd-meat, anu 'igarf, i 11 t il p[u,agc:~_ til all) run l' a Ily- ,-lild wait",I'~ l'Ound the tab]' Iïlût(', alld tiJ> am' di lt· 111 n it. Thu ,
r
tltougltt in my old European days, 15
/irwls CLtul .l!'tttw;'e ' abottl J /tUft, But, ince, T have c me to Java and J have seen ft Batavia hotel- n t'u?Jtol, mrt/m.n, Ah! thnt wa, a ,lll'pl'i P, a
'hoek, a rel'elation- l wonl] ay " un fri !:ion n uveall ir Bntavia alHl ehiverillj! wel" eOlllpatibl tCl'l1It', n touff'emenl 1l0UV au better 'xpre e my elI ation', a, it f1a h ti
"pon me in full noon-day glol'y, Noon i its own time. it hou!' of hour", the instant wh n tho ' oppo ing 1- Inents of Java !ife- tb native 10Pli- lation most ron, pi '110\1 of a m ming, anel th EUI'Opeall l'ollting nl PI'('- pOndfll'ant in til flVl'nillg nttain that p.xact l)uil oi .' whi 'h l!il'C' til{' pla<'f' it pt'euliar 'haractrr: anel wil 'n Illl~
l'onelition ot' ~ky, air, tLULl 'al'th al'l'
) att\111 cl to tl'Ll ,t htll'J'l1011y with il,
Th gl'eat 'tl' ng full lloon-ua)" "UJI
IJ at' on the btu" ed buildin tb, beat- ing their whitene 8 to all intol('rabJ' in 'ande c nee. Tt ha" • t the garelen ablaze, burnillg up tb long fl'ley hadow of al')Y moruing lo I'oundi h
18
.1 .Haluvia HolIJl.
patchn of ,t charr'd blaek, that clin to the foot of tbe trees; alld making tbe air to quivel' vi ibly above the 'col"hed yellow gras -plots. Among til il' dal'k leafage, the hibiscus flowertl Rare up like living Hame: and tIl\} reel- and-oranae blo soms, droPPulg from the branche of the flamboyant, eem to Ii on th patl! Iike smouldering embers.
'l'brough this blaze of light and col oW', mo\'c groups of gaudily-draped nativeö - water-carriers, flower-sellors, fl'uit- vendol' , pedlal's elling silk and pl'ecioutl
'tone · -their slend l' body swathod in pink, r d, green, Ol' yell ow sarongs, their hoad pl'oteeted ffom tb' un by all enorlnOUS mushroolU- hap·d hat of plaited traw, alld their hininO' hOllldol'b bending und ra bamboo yoke, fl'om th
nd of whieh dangle bask ts of mer- -handis . malI, browlI, chubby ehi!- dren, a neklet their one artiele of wear, al'O gathel'ing thll tiny, yell ow- white blossom ta1's that bespangle the grass tllldel' tb tanjong tree , Grave-
11
I/acts and }I'ancies abou€ Java.
fa ed A rabs r,trid pa t. Chinamen rrudge alon<r- lean, :lgile figure -chat-
.ring ::tnd <TCsticlllatillg ól they go. But, among tb l'owd ofOl'ientals, 1Iv f;~urop 'an are sceu, 'av those who rapidly pass in vehicles of every dcscrip- tioll fr01l1 the jolting do -á-do onwards
with it dim in ut ivo ponyalmost dis- appearing between thc shafts- to thc elegant victoria dl'awn by a pair of big Australian horses. But, eveu whon driving, the noon-day hoat is dangerous to the Westerner; and the European inmates of the hotel are all in the dark cool verandahs, enjoying a dolce far Iliente enlivened by chaffering with th natives and drinkillg iced lemonades.
And- here is another surprise for th newcomer !- the ladies wear wbat eems to be the native dress of 'al'ong and kabaya! A kabaya is a 'ort of dressing-jacket of profusely-ombroi- derecl white batiste, fastened down the front with omamellt.al pins and little gold' chains; and under it is worn tbe
18
.d. Sa.t.avia. 1! oir/.
--- --- - ----
sarong, a gaudily-coloured skirt falling down straight and narrow, with one single deep fold in front, which is kept in place by a silk scarf wound severa) times round the waist, its cords dang- ling loose. With thi costume, little high-heeled slippers are wom ou thc bare feet; and the hair i done in native stylc, simply drawn back from tbe forehead, and twisted into a knot at the back of the head. Altogether, this style of attil'e is original rathel' than becoming.
But, if this must be confessed of the
!adies, what must be said of ti garh ome men have the courage to appoar in? A kabaya and (may Mrs. Grundy graciously forgi\'e me for saying it! for how shnll I describe the indescribable, save b)' calling it by it own hy me nev 1'-
to-be-pl'ononl1ced name?) troll er" of th in sarong-. tutr gaily sprinklcd with bluc anel y lIow flowel's. hnttrrfliefi, ::tnd dragolls!
But all this is only an indti- 19
E'a,ou ~,ut Fa,ttci'll abold J4Va. tion into that supr m mystery, celebrated at nOOD, the riee-tablo.
Here, in deed is "un étouffernent nou- veau." All thing pertaininO" to it.
work together for bewilfl.erm nL. TI) begin with: it i servcd. !lp, not in any ordinary dillinrr-I"O m. hut in the "back guller :. a place whirh i a sight in it elf, ti long anel loft,y hall supported on a lonnade, btween the white pillar of whieh glimp IJ are caught of til briIliantly-fl wering shrubs and dark-Ieaved tro in th garden without. In the eond place.
it is handed rOLU1(l by llativ. l'ervallt , inaudibly moving to nnd fro upon harl' fe t, arrayed i clotb . of a emi- European rut in 'ollg-rnou Iy 'oml in cl with til .Tavane. (' sarong and head- 'kerchi f. An 1. la t not Jeu t, thc meal it!\clf i such a ueVPT was tastcd in CD or h'md beCor. The prineipal disll is riee and chi k ll.
which sound simplc enough. But, OH thia a a ba is, au entire ystem of
20
A Bedavw Rot~l.
things unedible has beeu eonstrueted:
besidcs fish. flcsh. fow1. and fricassees. all manner of curries, auee, pickles, pro- rved fruit, salt eggs fried banana .. 'sambal" f fow!" liver, f1Sh-1'oe.
young palm- hoot and tb god of Javane e cookery alonc know what more, all trongly piced, and sprinkled with eayennl'. 'fher-i nothing und l'
the un but it lllay be made into :l sambal: alld tl con cientious co ok wonld eount tbat a 10 t day on whieh he bad not ent in at tbe very lea t twpnty of su h nondes- cript èishe to hi ma ter's tabIe, for \ ho dige tion 1 t all 0" 1 ttll' ouls pray! And wbclI to a lt h tb IElhall haH' add d that thl'. many and tran!!"!' hing. mil, Iw at u with a poon in Lbc right and a t"ork in th" left hand.
tho read l"I'ill b ab!!' 10 juJO"f' j1011' vl'r ('Olllj lic tNI all affair thR ri!' -tabl i, :md 110\\ t,a~ily thc uninltiatC' 1 mal' 'om to grief over it. [l'0l" my elf, 1 shall nev!'\' fOl".e:et my fi I"st eXpOl"Îflnef\
21
Fa.ot. Q/1/4 Ftmeill$ abot,t Java.
of tbe th ing. I had just come in from aride tbrough the town, and I suppose the glaring sunlight, the strangely- accoutred erowd, thc nove) sight and sounds of th city must hav(' slightly gone to my head (th ere are plenty of intoxicants besides "gin,"
vide the Autocrat of the Breakfast Tabie). Anyhow, 1 entered tht>
"back gallery ,. with Ll sort of " here- the-eonquering-hel'o-eomes" feeling; looked at the long table groaning undel' its dozen of riee-bowls, . cores of dishes of fowls and flsh, and hundred'"
of sambal-saueers, al'raycd between pyramids of bananas, mangosteens, aDd pine-apples, as if I could have eaten it all by way of "apétitifj" at m(' down; heaped my plat up with everything that came my way; and feU t~. What followed, I hav no word~
to expre s. '" ulfice it to say, that in less time than I nol\' take to rclate il.
1 was reduced to the mo t abject misery.
My lips smal'ted with the Sery touch of 22
A'Batavia Hotel.
- - - -- - - - -
the sambal, my throat the more sorely scorched for the hasty draught of water with whic1t, in my ignorance, I had tried to allay the intolerable heat, and my eyes fuH of tearl', which it was all I eould do to lJrevent from openly gush- ing down my cheeks, in ·treams of tltter misery. A ebaritable person told me to put a little salt on my tongue, (as childl'en at home are told to do on the tail of thc bird they want to catch).
I did so; and, af ter a minute ofthe most excruciating torture, the agony subsided.
I gasped, and found I was still alive.
But there and then Ivowed to myself I would never so much as look at a l'ice·
table again. I have broken that vow, I say it proudly. It i but a dull mind which cannot reverse a first opinion, or go back upon a hasty resolve. And now I know how to eat riee; I love it. Still, that first meal was a shock. It suddenly brought home to the senses -what up to that minute had been noted by the understanding only-the fact of my
98
being in a new country. The glar of tbe aarden without, the 'Malay ing-song of those dark bal'e-footed servants
,
the nondescript clothe of tbe other guests, united with thc t,ingling and burning in my throat to make me rea-
\ise the stupendou change that had come over my tmiverse, th antipodaJ attitude of tbing in Europe and tbillgf' in Java_ I had the almost bodily . en- Ration of the intervening leagul>. upon leagues of tbc dividing ba m on tbe unknown ide of which I hael jut landed. And it fairly dizzied m .
Now, the natura) l'eaction followin upon a hock of this kind thl'ow onc ba k upon tbe previous tate of tbinO"
in the case-the way and manner J the old country- and one tubbol'llly resolves t adbere to til lll. But, thougll th is may be natura), it j not \Vi e.
I, at least, oon di covered for my elf tbe truth of the oid a e's aw: " Vérité en decà des PYl'énées, erreUl' en dela,'
a8 applied to tbe affairs of evcryda.
2-'
ct lJatat;În }(otel.
lif(': the 1Il0)' SO, a: 0' alls :mel broad
"ontincnt, tIL, 'pac of tltou alld . Pyl'rncan l'ancre f'pamtf' tho~(' hith l'
anel t hithcl' 'ide . Holland alld J a\ra.
Th , hom '-mark>cl ·tandarrl
or
flf allel untit H111 t b laiel a~idc. Th, uul 1l111Sf. doft' hPl' do. e-(;rll~ing lla its of PI' 'jlllliced thOll"lll. Th' wi ' man 11111 t be 'ontcllt to begin lil" UVt')' again. b 'ouling' .\-11:t a bab' anel 11cklinr' aud op nin ' eh rub lip:; nl)' ro Ilrinki : ;
tb' li,.,l!t, th leisurt' and th luxuriani b auiy
r
tIli" n w cuuntr a a ri IJ ll1other'b milk- Lhe I.JI[Ull Ie lilr
II 011 whi'h t gl'Ow up fo (colonial) manh oei, Bu Lo I"Ltll'll tu tllat fil' t "ri' ,- Labl'." f[pl' lil ' l'i 'P, 'unie .. , ·tl·. had l.J en di Jlosed of. l,eef and ~al .. d app'a1' c:, anel. Lu llly intinit a toni h- ment, I\' 'rl' liL] 0 ed of in th ir turu to b follow d by tlll' de ·:-l'l't.-pine-appl . lUallgo L 'I! , v I v ,t "[', III buOtUllS ..:md all x e 'din<Yly pictm fin
a n~1
[1' ttilY-dhap d fruit-i:!phere of a pale gold ~ouininiug 'olourl s~ pcl\l1('id ric 1I
:Jó
li'ad.' MUj, 1J'cmcies ttbottt Java.
- - -
- wl;'b
r
Ileard c;),Ued "dookoo.' Tben Lba gu bt begall to 1 ave th tabie, and I wa told it was time 1'01' the ie ta-<ln thAI' J avan in, tiLllti n, not a whit Ie 's important, il wonld appeal', t han tIJ 'famull rice-table- and vastly
II10r populal' \l'ith newcomel' . Pel'hap ,
th pre liug meal po es es omni- C rou vil'tue : or, porhap the heat and trial' of tho morninp; PI' di po 'one to
Hl ep' 01', pel'hap - aftel' 0 many yeal'~
of omplaining abou( 'being waked t 0 •. oon "- th IUggL l' 1 ij H, l' joi ei' al, IJ ing bidd 11, in tho name of th IHtLnraJ filne of thing , to ('10 and slumb [' again: [will not attempt to de ·id \ bi·h of tho e thl' epos ible eau es i' the tru n; but so mu h i 'ortain: ven tbo e who ki kroost vigorou 'ly at th l'i e-tabl , !ie them down witb Iamb-like me kn s to the ,ie ta, 1 oufe [wa very glad my olf t cap into the oolness ::tod quiet of my room, Plaio enough it wa with it bare, wbite·
28
A. Batavia Botel,
washed walis and celling, it red- tiled Boor and piec of co ar e matting in the centre, its can -bottomed eba ir. , But how I deligbted, in tb ab en e of carpet and wall-pap r , wh D I found tbe . tone fiool' 0 deliciou Iy '001 to th ti et, and the bal' wall dj tilling a freshne a of lil '-1 av . ! 'l'h i ta la t d to aboui foll!', Th D popi began to hurry [a t ruy window, witll flying towel and b ating lippel's, mar hin to th bath-r om , And, at five, tea wa brought into th ' v randall.
Tben began tbe ftr t ruoderately-cool hour of th day. ,Ii ht br 7.
prang up and wand r d abollt in tb gard n, tirrin('l th cl n r f liagp of th waringin-tree, and makiJ)(J' it hundr d of pendulo air rooL g nOr • way t and fro, A whit(, blo~. om - bo,,' L' tlut- ter d dowlln'orn tlw tanjonrr-bran hr
preading t'1'<.\"ranc' lk it feil. An] hy andby,afaintl' sin b'ganto oft nthl' crud whit!' of tbr Lu (;oed wall an I olonnad . nd to kind! the f til ry
27
little cirrus·cloud floating high over·
head, in tl1f' d ep hlue ky whel'e thp great "kalongF" WI'\'(· Hhl'arly hpgin·
tling to circle.
t i it wa_ almo l durk.
Th loungers in thc yeranda], lu~c
fJ'oJll th ir tea, and w nt in. And, omr' half·hom later, I _aw th' lac1ip5 j'l uing forth in Paris·ma lp ((1' F fl~, ano t hp men in til al'h f. ociety 3t'coJnpany them n tllf'irN\U ,f rwhi hlwa tuld his wa th . h LU'. Toe " fr nt gall r.,·"
f tIJ hCltf'l, a . paciou hall support d on pillU1'8, wa hrilliantly lito "'irl. at nt tlw piano. al" mpanyill h I' ('If 10 on\'
or
thos W>il:d, tlll'illing _ong'l ~ll·h a" :ll'if'p:
unlJpl1"en('oll1l' ;<0 th 111. And \\'11\'11 I \\' 111 in I IJ Uw ei!!ht,·Cl·' ·Iof'k dinll 1'.
til wenu 1'111' whielt mi yhl IHI\'P bI" n writt 11 in an)' ~HI'oll'aJl hnt I. I I,ad soml' tI' ub1 in identifyill.C: til\' !';(;I'nt' with thai whj('h, eadi,·r ill ! lIP day. had
so l'I1del . hocked my I!,;It I'Opp:1n id a,... half b li "'d t hl' rin ,t ahl , t/w
lil' ng alld kaba ra, and tllP ,Javane_p 2
4 8ata1';n Hofel.
.. boys I' must have been a dl'eam, until
r
was onvin ed f th . >ontl'ary b. thl' igllt of 11 bJ'own lean hand thrn t OH!to hange my plMP pI' fi!'oh f 1' :1 Itplpin~
Cl!' f1npa t':11!11~
29
The Town.
1T i but ('OL' want I' a betteL' word th at nf' 11 thi' tp1'I1 1)(" to\\"n .. 1 (\
designate that pi tur S41H' I'n"('nlhl,'
or
villa-. tudded park and H\'lJnll\O~.
Batavia, 'l'iler i, it i imp, an Irll'1' Batavia, gr y, grilT. allel :Hony [I :lny war- carred city f El1rope- tb .tron!!·
hold whi h tll(' "t('el-rlad ('olon iPt .1' 1620 built on tbp nÜlls
or
lmrnt-dowli Ja 'atm. But, 10n<1 "ilI' abanrloncd hy oldiers and , ea 'eful citi7. 11. alikl', anc!i " 011('(' tltnLely Illamülln: UCf!:rad C'\ 1"
ffic . all. I \\'lll'l'liollse, , ii ha, "111Ik iJlI"
a mor 'uburb- th(' hll in .~ ql1f11'l r
of Batavin- :tli\'c dUl'in ij
r \\.
hom f 30the day ollly, and sinking back-i;lt;;a c1eath·likC' stillne"". n~ ,oon a. tlw I'I1lnhle of til last do\\'n-h'ain ha' fiiod
;tway IIlIlong-its l"'hoinJ! ·tof> tE'. ADel the L'eal Batavia- ilJ l'ontradi. tinction lo whidJ thi "Ilei nt t(uartf'r i called
11 the town "_i as uolike it a if it had
bl'UIi built b~' a di/f r ut order of beings.
Tt i be t de cribed a a y tem of park and avenue, link d by many iI
plea~ant bywayand had w)' path with
'I ,)'('
ttnd ther ti glimp of the Kalil3ahLvia gliding al ng btween th' hamboo grovc on it bank , and every- wh I'C tbe whitelles of Iow pillared hou.e·, tanding IV II back from the road, each in its own leafy gard n. In te ad of wall , a ruw of low tone pillar 110t much higher than mile tone parates private from publi
<Yrounds, 0 that frOlTl a di tance one 'unnot.. c where tb park ends aod th streat begin . Tbe badow of the tall
t I'ee of the avenue keeps the aarden eool: nnd tbe white dust of the road i
31
Faci:; (md 1,'ancie:; (tbout Ja'IJtt.
"prinkl cl with the ft w )" that.li' at- ter cl v r til Hl oth gra. plots and
... h Il- trewn path of thC' villa.
Am ng th -lULU' . of Batavia, th' larg t anel mo. t l' rnal'kahle hy far i tbofamou KoniD" pl in. Itisnotso ll111c.h:ct. 'Quar a . imply a ficlu, va t 'lluugh to build a 'ity 11. dotted frolll place' to pla 'e by ik turinCT 'attl anel hOl'clered on th foUl' iel . of it irr - gular quad ':1110'1 by a tripl l'OW of branching tamal'inel" Prom the 'outh, two aeria] m untain-top over! ok it.
Th bl'owll bare xjJanso f meadowy rrrollnd lyin tlm broadly op n to thr
." , 1
<;ky, with notbiuCT but 'loud ,anel ~lou - like hili-top 1'i inO' ~tbov lt dlstant rampart of tI' , eom. like ,t tra t
?f
llntam d wilderne " trangely et \IJ
the mid t of a city, au 1 all th mol"
,;avage and 101lely fol' the 'e roooth,
'Ul'l'otmdings, Btween tbe toms of
the delicate-leaved bmal'illds, glimpse' ar caught of gateway. and pillared house : thc eastern ide of th quad·
Si
r<lngic is disfigtu'ed by a glaring rail- wa.y-station, And, notwithsta.nding, it I'emains a l'ugged solilary spot, a waste, il'l'oclaimally barren, and which, by th heer tr ngl'J1 of it, IInconquol'ed wilclness, sllbduos its
f'1I vil'onm ent to it own mood, Th· 11 usos, glintincr btween tho trees, . e m mere accident of tho lanc1-
'ap , simply heaps of ton ; the glur- ill'" miJway- tation it elf sink into an incli tinet whitene ',di a oeiated from any idoa of human thought an 1 enter- prise.
Now and then a Ilative trav 1'50S til Held, slowly mOlling along all invi 'ible track, He do not di turb the Ion - lino , Ho i indiCTenou to th pJaco, it natural produ t, almo t a' mllch as the cicada trilling muon'" the «mss blades, th 'nakes darting in and out amon'" th Ol' vico~ of tbe un-bHkec1 soil, alld thel all cattJe, u pOli who' back the erows pereh, There is but olie abid- i lig powel' alld pre 'enee here - Uw uroau
3S
lPacls Ctnd F(t11,cie.~ aboul Java.
- - - - -
brown ficld- tmdor the broad blue ky, sbifting shades and splendours over it, and that horizon of sombre trees all around.
This vast sweep of sky gives the Plein a tone aod atmosphere of its o\\'n. The change in the hour and the sea-
on that are but guess d at from some oeeasional glimp. e in tho str et, here are fully revealed. The sunshine may have been glaring enough among the whitewashed houses of Ryswyk and Molenvliet-it is on the Plein vnly that tropïeal sunshine manifests itself in thc plenitude of its power. :;he great un stands fl.aming in the dizzy heights; from the soorohed field to the ineandescent zenith the air is one blaze, motionless and white-hot, in whioh the taU tnmarinds stand ere and grey, the grass hrivels up to a tawny hay, and the bare oil Wfens and cracks. The intolerabl day is past.
Peopl , rettuning home from thc town, see a. rOieate sheen playing over roofe
34
a?d waUs, a long Cl'imson eloud sailing lugh overhead. Those walking on the Plein behold an apocalyptic heaven and a transflgured earth- a firmamental eonfl.agration-eruptions of scarlet fl.am through incarnadined cloud, rUDllels of fire darting athwart the melting gold and tran lucent green of tbe horizon' hili-top ehanged into crater and tali trees into fountain of zodia al light.
Alld many arethenight ,when, betom- ing aware of a dimness in the moonlit air, 1 have ha telled to the Konings- plein, and found it whitely waving with mi t, a very lake of vapour fitfully heavillg and sinking in
th~
uncel'Lain moolllight; antl rolling airy waves against a hore of uarkl1ess.
Tbc ea~on , to bow they triumph
i~ UÜ bit of oJ:.len CutUltry! When, ultel' the JevulU'ing heat of tbe Ea t MOJl 0011, Llte g od gift of the rains i,,; J:.IOlll'Ctl down from til heaveus alld th tOWll kllOW of llothiug
bu~
impl'ucti .. bi' stre Ls, Uoou~d houses, 35
Faet, ahul Ftt"eiee about J(I,V(I"
:md crumbling walle, then it is a time of l'esurrection and vernal glory for tbe Plein, The tamarinds, gal1nt grey skeletons a few days ago, burst into full- leaved greenness: tbe hard, white, cl'acked soil is uddenly covered with tender gras , fresh a8 the herbage of an April meadow, in th at land offl'cshness Holland, In tbe early morning, the broad young blacles are white with dew, There i a thin silvery l1aze in tbe air, which dissolve-' into a pink and golden radi- anee, a Lha firsL slanting sunbeam,' pierce it. Anel the tree tops, far olf and inelistinct, seem to l'i,;e airily over hollows of blue shade, Not far from the Koning plein thel'e is another quare,
it v 1')' opnosit in aspect anel
chal'acteJ'- tlte ielyllic Duke's Pal'k- very shadowy, fragrant, an 1 green.
One walks in it as in a poef dr am. All around th ere is the ml1ltitudinou budding and blo somillg of faint- oloul'ed flowel's, a play of transparent bamhoo-shadolVs that flit and shift
36
TM Tot n,
over smooth grassplot and shell- strewll path, a ceaseless alternation of glooms anel glorie, Set amidst taIl dark tree, whose topmost brancbes break out into flame-colourcd blossom, thel'e tand ct marbie mansion, tem- ple-like in its severe grace of DOl'ie columns and crownÎl1g fronti pieee, A bend of tbe river enfolds tbe plea ance, murmul'ing, The Park of the Duke . , , , , , , ,On wonders- was he at all like Olivia's princely suitor? and we re these glad s ever haunted by som Violu-like maiden, wooing him all-ul1su,'pe tedly from hi forlom allegianee ? urely, yonder starry orange-grove we re a meet seelle for the final recognition : -
"Doy, thou ha t, said to me n tbou anc.!
times.
Tboll nevcl' 1I'0uid t lov IVoman like LO me, " "
The i I'ouy of facts ha willcd it other- wise,
A duke it was, ure enougb, that 37
stood sponsor to the spot. But as (aeeording to French authorities) there are fagots and fagots, even so there are Dukes and Dukes-and vastly more points of difference than of resem- blance between Viola's gentie prince, and that thunderous old Lord of
axen-Weimar, to whose rumbling Kreuzdonnerwetters and Himmels- Sakramellts this abode of romance re-eehoed some fifty years ago. A dis- tant relative to the King of the Nether- lands, he wa indebted to his Royal kinsman's sen se of family lluty 1'01' these snug quarters, a very considerable ineome (from the N ational 'l'reasury) and the post of an Army Commander, which upheld the dignitary in the pensionel'.
His tastes were few and simpie, and saving the one deligllt of hi soul, a I enurious youth, and the hardship of the Napoleollic upremacy having su thoroughly taught him the habit, that it had become a econd nature to him; anu would !lot be ousted now by the mere
38
'l'he Town.
fact of his having become rieh. He was proud of his parsimony, too-prouder even than of his wcaring, remarkable as it was and, amid t the pomp and eireum-
tanee he had 0 late in life attained
t~, neglected not the hum bIe taJents which had solaeed hi less affiuent days.
o that, looking upon the many goodIy acres around his palace, lying barren of all save grass, flowers, blossoming trees, and sueh like useless stuff, he at once saw what an unique oppor- tunity it wouJd afford him for tbe exer- ei e of his favourite virtue. And, set- ting about the matter in his own thorough-going way, cut down tbe trees, ploughed up the grassplot , and had the grounds neatly laid out in onion-beds, and plantations of the sirih, whicb tbe J avane e loves. Here one might meet the Duke of a mOl'lling- a portly, bald-pated, red-faced oid warrior witb a pl'odigious "meer- schaum " protruding from his bristling white beard, stars, crosses, and gold-
39
Facls a1ul Fancies about Jav(t.
Iace all over bis genera I's uniform, and a pair of Ii t slippers on his rheumatic old toes. An orderIy walked behind him, holding a goJd-edged ' sunshade o\"e1' hi shining pata.
And, every now and then, tbe Duke would stop to look earnestly at bis crop , and, stooping witb a groaning of bi flesh, and a cr aking of hi, 'tigbt tuuic, straighten some trailing plant, or flick off an in ect from th sirih le:1\'e .
" Tbe Dukc was in his kitchen-garden, A counting of bis money,"
as one might vary the nUl'se1'y rhymc.
For money it was he counted, when bc gazed 0 long and earne tly at his vegetables- the alchemy of hi thrifty imagination tuming every young talk and sprouting leaflet into a bit of metal, adorned ,nth his Royal kinsman's effigy. and when tbe green pennies- to-be were plentiful, weIl content was tbe gardener ; and if not-" Mountains and vales and fioods, heard Ye tho e oaths ? ' 'fradition has kept all echo of
40
them. Th y wcr something ql!.Ïte out of t.IJ common order, and with ct , tyI.' and sound 0 emphatically I,h(-'ir own a~ 10 bafnr imitatiol1, anel rend r d 'rip- LioJl a bop Ie ta k.
~or did this ol'igwality wellr ft' a~.
in tlte COlli' of tlime, tbe worthy Dukfo egan lo fOl'g"t tbe langl1ag- ol' tht, 1<'athoJ'land. 1"01', 10 ing bi· G l'IIlaJI.
he found not hi DlltcL, alld the expl' j,,- . ion' he om po. cd ouL of lIclJ odels and 'nds of tlle two langllagc" a he ould lay tongll to, would La\' a tonished the builders of Babel 'fower. Fortu- nately, ho\\'ever, hi angel' wa aR :-:hol't-lived a it wa violent, :md, wh n th la t thund rclap of .Kreu1.millionen Himmel Donner vetter had g1'uduallv died awa.y in an indi -tinct l'umbling, h' would lIlU0101l hi . att ndant 1'01' a light Lo l' kindie hi ]lipe with a' C DI now thou bla k pi '-dog ,. tbat oltnded <juit>
t'l'ÏencUy. od ol I 1 IUf>tel' )' at bot- tom, h tl'el:l.ted his depenu nt' kin Hy,
.\nd never enl away a b {!gal' penn.·-
41
I/acts (trui lla'twies allo'ut Java.
lp!,,~. "Doitle "t ShOllJd have written
,
fOl" hi~ donatioJUo IJe\'cr Xt 'cded that
;1111 unt.
'I'here is a lalt: vf .111 A. D. C., hi:.
:\l'lJointcd almoner JOl' tlte tim(' , havinc "
ullO day come to hi111 w'th a subscri} - tioJl list, on whieh the cu tomary doit ligured a His · 'eren Highne~' the Duke of Saxen Weimar' . contriblltion
,
' aud hinting at wbat he considered tbe diSpt'oportion hetween thc exigllity of thc gift, and the wealth and worIdly tatiol1 of tbe giver. He must bave b en a very ra h A. D. C. Tbe Duke tLlrned llpon him like a savage bull.And, aftel' a volley of oatbs: Too little ! he 1'Oare 1: Too little! and again, TOD
little ! I wouJd have you know younkel'; tbat a doit i a great deal when one has nothing at all !
It was a ery de profundis-laughable and half contemptible as it sounded
,
the echo from unforgotten depths of misery.
He had known what it meant ., ta .. 2
'llhe '1'011' ,1.
have nothing at all.' Wherefor
,
anel for those winged word in whi h he uttered the knowleclge, let hL on ion-bed be forgivell him. Of the outrage he eommittcd, only the memory i left- the efrect h:lYe lon~ince heen obliterat d: bountiful tropi- cal natur having alrain hower d h \.
trea, ure," f leaf ancl finw l' ov r t.hp b ggar ct gal'den alld re-I'I' te I, in tllPil' pI ace , the "1' en tower, \lf 11 l' tree .
Hij wijk, Ko rdwijk, nncl MlnvliPL.
th . mmf'reial qLl:ntpl''' or Il:ltavifl, [lJ'P mol' Eur peall in n'lJi j, I,han til, Koning 'pI iJl: tliP hou::!l'''' - !top,; rOl' th ....
Illn ... t part- al'p. huiH in traight l'O\\'~:
"id walk l,ol'd r th "trü tso :md n Iloi .. y litjjc ::it ·êllll- Hl' pants a nd mLtle, pa t frum Illorninrr tiU night. But, with th sc Euro]) all, tl'ait Jaran se harac-
tel'i~ti , minrrle, iJnd Iho l't'~lIlting lf()cl is a 11101-\\ "Ul'iOll, on '. someWltal bo\\'ilderin y wi thaI I (I rltt: n ,\V-COlli I' in it mixtl11'e of the unknowll with tlH' familiar. Ab olutely commonplar
43
F'a.cts and Fo,ncie/S ahout J4114.
• hops are approaehed through gardens, the sidewalks are strewn with flowerp of the flame-of-the-forest: and at the treet-eorner, in. tend of abs, 011. find the nondescript sadoo, it driver.
gay in a flower cl rou !in ve. t 'md a
~audy headkerchief, luatting cro - leg ed on the ba k ~eat. .·0 l'llwijk i'"
unique, an Am terdam . gracht" in n tl'opical etting. Imagine a long straight cnnal, a gleam of gr en-brown water between walls of r ddi h ma ou1'y- spau- ned from place to place by a bridge, and shaded by tIJ. oftly-tinted Innfagf' of tamarincl n eithel' ido a \Vid . r1usty road arid gard n. wel tering iJl the un, a nd glaring white hnn- /{al \\. : the fipl" hlue of tho t1'opi<;al .. ky ov l' it alJ. :alldily-paintrd" pr:lO ..
."Iide down th clark wat!'I': nativl' women pa IIp and down the Ri ht ol' stone 'teps thnt lim 1 " fl' m tht' water'~
edge to tho treet, a flowel' tuck to their gleaming wet hail'; tbe tribe of fruit- vandol' aDd ellers of wret drink and
44
The TOI/·II .
cakes have e tablished themselves along the. parapet, in the shade of the tama- rinds; and the na.tive crowd, 'oming and going all day long, make. a kalei- do oopic play of rololU's a10nl! th~ . tiIJ rlark cana!.
From the Iittlc ·tation aL th corner of oordwijk anel:M lenvliot, a team- car run along th cnDal down to th suburbs : oyel'y quarter of au houl' i1 come pa t, pnffiDg alld rattling: aml
very time' th' third-clo s compart- ment i. ohokinrr full of nativ s. Thr fever anel th fret of EUl'opean Jil' have eized upon thr e lei uoly I'iental too.
They have aban loneel their il'ih- 'he\\'- ing alld day-drpaming llpon the FiqllU1'1'
of mattin 0' in th ('001 eOrnfll' flf
I he hOIl ,th dtl~ty 1 ath alon" wlii h r.h y u~eel I,) tl'lIdgt:'in Indian file, wh n
thpl'p \\'[1'" nn III'~ent nec . it'y 1'01' g in,2'
t,t) markt't· iJnd beh ld them all p rch 'ct
upon thi~" oevil'a enginp,' ",hoJ'e they ,·nnnOT. even it down in the way t,hey were taught to •. hurklillg on th ir hnn-
45
