M ANAGERIAL IMPLICATIONS - DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

CHAPTER 5. DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSION

5.4 M ANAGERIAL IMPLICATIONS

This study provides valuable insights for marketing managers and brand managers working in the field of sustainable line extensions for fashion brands. Sustainability is a growing trend for corporates and one of the most dominant considerations for consumers to purchase (Ryding et al., 2017). As a big concern has been acknowledged for the environment for decades, producing sustainable clothing has become an urgent subject for fast fashion companies (Beard, 2008;

Koch & Domina, 1997). The findings suggest that marketing managers of fast fashion brands who adopt a strategy to introduce sustainable line extensions, should contemplate that personalization negatively correlates with the effect of perceived fit on brand credibility.

Nonetheless, retailers could personalize the extension for a higher brand credibility, but only in relation to consumers perceiving a low level of fit. For brand managers working in the field of sustainability, it may be useful to gain insights in consumers’ values with regards to the motives behind the sustainable line extension, as the importance of perceived fit is highlighted in the literature. Managers should keep these values in mind and adjust their marketing for the line extension to the values of the consumers’ fit to create credibility (Hill, 2011). Due to the scepticism of customers in the fast fashion industry, it is suggested that fashion retailers take action to build sustainability into their retailing and adjust their marketing to the values of these consumers. However, this would only be successful when the brand is transparent about the production process, as this leads to higher trust, especially about sustainable claims. The ultimate goal for fast fashion brands is the ability to implement sustainable production processes into their management, even though the consumer does not perceive a fit. This study is an essential step in this direction.

Chapter 6. Limitations and future directions

Several findings have aroused interest for future studies to develop impermeable explanations, while analyzing the explorative results. Hence, this section presents directions for future research based on the research limitations.

First of all, choices were made with regard to research design. As this study uses a survey, it is acknowledged no causality can be predicted between the variables as the independent variable is not manipulated; only the correlation between perceived fit, personalization and brand credibility is determined (Husdon & Ozanne, 1988). It is suggested for future studies to conduct a between-subjects experimental design to predict causality with two conditions of co-creation and perceived fit. Based on findings of the current research and previous researches, it is further recommended to examine what effect transparency has on credibility towards a brand and what mediating effects could be. As findings showed, transparency of companies leads to higher trust, especially about sustainable claims (Hill, 2011;

Lipke, 2008; Nyilasy et al., 2014). It is therefore encouraged to conduct a study on how providing consumers with information and education on the environmental impact of extensions could affect credibility, in another way than through co-creation.

Second, ecological validity is placed emphasis on. This is the degree to which the research instruments capture the daily life conditions of the respondents as expressed in their natural habitat (Cicourel, 1982). With regards to the procedure, a real brand was used for simulating a brand extension, as this carries well-formed associations and feelings, leading to perceptions on fit, increasing realism and creating higher value of the outcome variable measures (Hill & Lee, 2015; Kenny, 2019; Morales et al., 2017). Additionally, the brand extension and co-creation scenarios were purely hypothetical, to uphold the internal validity.

in the independent variable. This guarantees that factors as opinions and thinking about the type of brand extension or previous experience with one, do not play a role in the relationship between the variables (McKechnie et al., 2012). For future studies, an experimental design could manipulate a moderator role of personalization through a real-life brand extension co-creation scenario. This is confirmed by the finding that providing the consumer with information on the fast fashion brand extension makes the consumer more familiar with the brand extension’s marketing strategy and subsequently pay more attention to the parent brand (Choi et al., 2010). Conducting a real-life co-creation framework further adds to the construal level theory by Kim & John (2008). Respondents could give less importance to perceived fit, when construing a stimulus in terms of concrete and contextual features. This feeling is stimulated more successfully in a real-world scenario, than in this study’s hypothetical scenario.

A threat for the first stimulus could be a recall bias, which is defined as “When participants do not accurately remember previous events or experiences they are questioned about” (Sudman

& Bradburn, 1973, p. 806). The respondents could have been biased when thinking about Zara.

In this study, 76% of the respondents had experience with Zara in the past 12 months, however, the other 24% was included in data analysis, due to the response rate. Nonetheless, 99% of the respondents was familiar with Zara (Hill, 2011; Kim & Oh, 2020). A future study may only include respondents who had more extensive experience with Zara in the previous 12 months.

However, this makes the results generalizable limited to this specific group and therefore, should be interpreted with great caution and used with reservation (Kenny, 2019; Lynch, 1999).

Third, concerning measurement, the respondents were asked about their perceptions of fit and brand credibility, through self-reports. A disadvantage of self-reporting is that the respondents are not estimating their purchase behavior and operations related to brand credibility correctly, resulting a more distant behavior different from reality (Cheng, 2021). It is acknowledged that this may decrease the internal validity of the study. Therefore, it is

suggested for future studies to observe actual purchase behavior within a real-life experiment.

All results were measured using the same informants to report everything at the same time with a non-variant measure format, called a cross-sectional survey (Cheng, 2021). This means that the correlations between the variables could be distorted and a common method variance (CMV) has occurred. This fact is acknowledged, as it can influence the study results, as correlations between the variables could for example be strong, but not as strong as measured.

A future longitudinal design would be able to counter this limitation.

Fourth, with respect to the data analysis, respondents with any missing data were excluded from the statistical procedure. It is observed that most respondents who did not perceive a fit, but had a high credibility, possessed a duration time filling in the survey of maximum two minutes. These values were still included as the measures were valid and reliable and as this negative correlation could also be a result of the moderation. The perceived fit and credibility being negatively correlated could have been caused by including all respondents with any length of duration time filling in the survey.

Finally, gender had a positive effect on brand credibility: women scored higher on brand credibility than men, but was however marginally, and not fully significant (p = 0.052 > 0.05) (Johnson, 2019). It would be interesting for future studies to determine whether there are any differences between men and women in the prediction of brand credibility. The sample size may have been a significant factor in the research since the differences in outcome have been slightly over 0.05. In the future, statistical significance in outcomes may benefit from increased sample size, N = 250 is more adequate. This may be indicative for future power analysis in marketing research in population samples. In this study, male and female consumers were counted as the same. However, male consumers may not have the same proportion of interest

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Appendices

Appendix A. Typology figure of brand activism

(Vredenburg et al., 2020). brand authenticity

Appendix B. Cover letter and informed consent Start of Block: INTRO

Dear participant,

First, thank you for your interest! My name is Heleen Becking, master student at the

University of Amsterdam. I would like to invite you to participate in a study to be conducted under the auspices of the Amsterdam School of Communication Research (ASCoR),

University of Amsterdam, The Netherlands.

Before the survey starts, it is important that you are informed about the procedures. Therefore, I would like you to read this information letter carefully. Please, don’t hesitate to ask for any clarification about this text or the general procedure. If anything might be unclear, the researcher will answer questions.

Goal and procedure of the study

The purpose of this study is to examine how personalizing a clothing line influences the brand credibility. All of this, within the fast fashion industry. First, you will fill in a few questionnaires online on identification, interests and awareness towards the fashion brand Zara. Second, as a stimulus, a hypothetical brand extension of this brand will be shown to you and you will be asked about your perceived fit. Third, your opinion will be asked about a hypothetical co-creation process together with the brand to create clothing and finally, you will be asked to fill in a questionnaire about brand credibility. The survey takes approximately 15 minutes.

Voluntary participation

This survey is meant for people familiar with the fast fashion brand Zara. There will be no consequences, might you be willing to not participate in this study. During the survey, you are free at any moment of choice to stop participating without giving a reason for doing so.

Within 11 days after participation, you are allowed to withdraw your data from this research and your data will be permanently deleted.

Discomfort, risk and insurance

As with any research at the University of Amsterdam, a standard liability insurance applies.

Your privacy

Your personal information remains confidential and will not be shared without your explicit consent. Your research data will be analyzed by the researcher that collects the information and writes the thesis. Research data published in scientific journals will be anonymous and cannot be tracked back to the individual respondents. Completely anonymized data can be shared with other researchers.

Further information

Should you have any questions about the study at any given moment, please don’t hesitate and contact the responsible researcher: Heleen Becking (Heleen.becking@student.uva.nl).

Thank you in advance for your assistance, Heleen Becking

End of Block: INTRO

Neutral (2)

o

^{No (3)}

Q7 These are the associations I have with Zara

________________________________________________________________

Q8 These are the values I think Zara has

________________________________________________________________

End of Block: Identification questions

Appendix D. Survey questionnaire

Start of Block: ZARA extension scenario - perceived fit

ZARA STIMULUS The following questions refer to your perceived fit. This is the fit between a new clothing line of Zara, and the values of the brand Zara itself. Please read the following scenario about this new clothing line, to fill in the questions.

Zara just launched a new sustainability initiative, an ethical clothing line. The line is designed for people who look into a more sustainable future and is made out of materials aimed at reducing environmental impact, like organic cotton and recycled wool. The sustainability efforts go beyond the clothes, Zara aims to have a sustainable mindset from products to packaging and wants to use boxes from recycled cardboard. The new clothing line is called #FairSustainableLife, which is the hashtag the Spanish brand is using in its worldwide social marketing campaign.

Q9 The following question measures your agreement or disagreement with statements about the clothing line and Zara. Please indicate to what extend you agree with the following statements and check the boxes. 1 = strongly disagree and 5 = strongly agree.

Strongly disagree

(1)

Somewhat disagree (2)

Neither agree nor disagree

(3)

Somewhat agree (4)

Strongly agree (5) I am well aware of

the values and associations of

Zara (1)