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4. Data and method

4.2. Data collection

In this thesis, a purposeful sampling strategy was chosen. Purposeful sampling actively selects the most productive sample to answer the research question (Marshal, 1996). Through this purposeful sampling strategy the sub strategy of critical case sampling and key informant sampling have been used. Critical case sampling means that individuals have been targeted that have specific experiences and key informant sampling means choosing subjects with special expertise, in this case: higher-level managers with knowledge about their business model (Marshal, 1996). Over 90 firms have been approached, through either LinkedIn

Premium or personal networks. From all 13 interviews, six came from the personal networks, five came from reaching out to managers through LinkedIn Premium, one came from

emailing firms directly and one came from messaging firms through Instagram.

4.2.1. Respondents and company profiles

In this subchapter the respondent and company profiles will be discussed. The company profiles have been summarized in Table 3. The names of the respondents, function titles and company names have been changed to ensure anonymity.

Company name

Business profile Interviewee

profile

Number of employees

Product Based Business Models

Momu Business model: They sell high-end, handcrafted clothes made by artisan communities of women on the luxury market.

Mission/Purpose/Goal:. Their mission is to tell the stories of women through these clothes.

Headquarters based in: The Netherlands

Name: Fleur Role: Business Partnership Manager

Number:.

Between 2-5.

Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022 and interview.

Golden Origin

Business model: They make sportswear from natural materials, the first non-plastic workout brand.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: A plastic free clothing industry.

Headquarters based in: The Netherlands

Name: Berend Role: Owner

Number:.4 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022

Hells Angels

Business model: Sell lingerie for women.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: is committed to building a family of the world's best fashion brands offering captivating customer experiences that drive long-term loyalty and deliver sustained growth for our shareholders.

Headquarters based in: The United States of America

Name: Laura Role: Global Manager of Sustainability

Number:

Between 21.877 and 30.000.

Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022 Bali

Accessorie s

Business model: They sell Amsterdam designed pieces made with real craftsmanship in Bali. The brand is currently sold in 180+ retail stores.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: We create unique and handmade pieces with a message of the importance of local craftsmanship all over the world. We produce in a way that is fit for today and the future; Beautiful and sustainable.

Name: Julia Role: Sales manager

Number: 5 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022 Flower Business model: One (wo)men company that produces clothes by hand based on orders:

sustainable slow fashion that is custom made.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: Not clearly stated Headquarters based in: Netherlands

Name: Karin Role: Owner

Number:. 1 Data source:

Interview

MALORY Business model: On-demand sustainable fashion based on pre-order only. They sell footwear, clothes and accessories.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: To encourage others to follow a fun sustainable lifestyle. We know we are small, however, we believe that everyone's efforts can make a huge change in the environment, local economies, and society as a whole.

Headquarters based in: Spain

Name: Mirthe Role: Global Operations Specialist

Number:. 67 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022

Bamboo Business model: They sell underwear, premium underwear made of bamboo.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: We stand for durability and comfort. Making beautiful, durable and comfortable undergarments.

Headquarters based in: The Netherlands

Name: Prisca Role:

Sustainable Branding Expert

Number:: 5.

Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022

LOKI Business model: They sell t-shirts on the high-end level, made holistically sustainable.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: Clothing brand of tomorrow. To show how real sustainable clothing is produced through a high-level sustainable developed supply chain and hopefully inspire the industry that it can be done in another way.

Headquarters based in: The Netherlands

Name: Rik Role: Owner

Number:: 8.

Data source:

LinkedIn 16-06-2022

Service Based Business Models

Mint Business model: Mint is an online marketplace that functions as a platform for the purchase and sale of second-hand goods, especially clothing and accessories.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: Their 50 million members support their mission: to make second-hand the first choice.

Headquarters based in: Litouwen

Name: Lucy Role: Director

Number:.

1000-1397 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022 and website.

Life Cycle Assessmen t

Business model: Through the Life Cycle Assessment Institute a global standard for products that are safe, circular and made responsibly is set. Their business model is to certify firms and firms can become part of our community.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: To lead, inspire and enable all stakeholders across the global economy to create and use innovative products and materials that positively impact people and the planet.

Headquarters based in: The United States of America

Name: Micky Role: Business

& Policy Employee

Number:. 35 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022

Tick Business model: Sustainability inside platform that was developed by the fashion industry and for the fashion industry to have a universal language to measure sustainability data.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: Without full visibility into a product’s impact, we believe that the sustainable transformation our world demands will remain impossible. We want to change this through advanced technology.

Headquarters based in: ? Fully remote

Name: Mara Role:

Management of Customer Base

Number:. 98 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022..

Forecasted Fashion

Business model: Forecasted Fashion is a cutting-edge fashion technology company that offers brands predictive analytics on trends and products using advanced artificial intelligence (AI) to translate real-world images from social media into insights.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: With our platform and consultative approach, fashion brands can clarify their vision of their market via images, analyses, and forecasts.

Headquarters based in: France

Name:

Mariette Role: Creative Director

Number: 66 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022

Aratram Business model: Main business model is selling unsold items from brands collections on their platform, which they don't get sold through their regular channels.

Mission/Purpose/Goal: Our mission is that all clothing that is produced should be worn and does not end up in a landfill.

Headquarters based in: The Netherlands

Name: Marjan Role: Lead manager in the Sustainability Department

Number: 300 Data source:

LinkedIn 10-06-2022

Table 3. Company profile of all 13 firms interviewed.

Out of all 13 interviews, 10 were Dutch and three were not (one from Spain, one from France and one from USA). The Dutch interviews were only translated for relevant quotations. In conclusion, from the 13 interviews, five are platform based business models, meaning specifically that they do not produce fashion, but have access to a lot of knowledge surrounding sustainability issues in the fashion industry. One, called Life Cycle Assessment, is a certification non-profit that certifies firms based on the level of sustainability of their products. Two are technology driven and offer services to fashion firms. The fourth is called Mint and is a global platform for secondhand clothing. The last, Aratram, is a reseller of overstock for big brands. The other eight firms are fashion producers, varying from sport clothing to jewelry. The firms range from a one woman slow-fashion firm to an international multinational lingerie brand with over 30.000 employees. Almost all of the interviewees were higher level managers, ranging from owners, to Directors to the Head of Sustainability. Three were not: the interviewee of MALORY, Bamboo and Bali Accessories. They were involved with sales, marketing or operational experts. All had knowledge about the business model and were to some level involved in their firms sustainability policies.